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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Chris Alber, Rick Leitner, 1998
Page Views: 236 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

5.11c (R=Rolofson). Like many routes on the wall, the grading may be soft or simply not the same for everyone. LS is the furthest left of the routes on the Bowling Alley proper and just right of the Mineshaft. Run up through some funky blocks for about 5.10 and then surmount the bulge on sloper moves. It has solid rock, but this is a bit weird for my taste.

Protection

A dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 meter rope just gets you down.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.11c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11c
I would recommend a 70 meter rope for this route. A 60 meter rope may be three to five feet short. If you are using a 60 meter rope, make sure there is a knot tied in the end.

The route has a hard crux & an interesting roof at 3rd bolt but is otherwise a lot of moderate climbing with ledges. Not a route I tend to repeat. Aug 11, 2017
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
I wouldn't give it an R rating, but a couple of the bolts are pretty badly placed if you are short (there is no reason they couldn't be an inch lower, and their height makes you do a move prior to clipping way above the last bolt...). However, the crux is well-protected, and most of the climb is mellow. May 15, 2015
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Don't know why this would have an R rating? Very well protected near any of the harder moves.... May 20, 2014
Funky route-- more reminiscent of Clear Creek lines than what I know of Boulder Canyon. The crux is traversing right into a bouldery layback problem about 60 feet up. I cruised right by the second bolt in this section in my desire to get on solid ground, then had a helluva time reaching behind my right leg to clip the sucker. That section and just above are quite slopey. A fun route; worth doing for variety's sake. Jun 8, 2003
Isn't this the furthest left route? Mar 12, 2003