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Routes in Witches' Tower

It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+
Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tipskin Jihad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
War is Love S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wisk, The V0 4
Witch Hunt V10-11 8A
Elevation: 6,750 ft
GPS: 40.002, -105.395 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,061 total, 92/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is up to a 140 foot high buttress or rib of rock that connects with Sherwood Forest across the creek from the Riviera & Bihedral about 7 miles upstream from the Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock area. It is initially less than obvious that it is a separate rock unless you are Boulder Canyon cognoscetti or until you peruse R. Rossiter's 1999 Boulder Canyon guidebook. Apparently there have been old routes done or attempted low on its steep W face. Since this original post, there has been some lines with bolts and gear added. Certainly, from a distance, evidence of such lines or attempts is difficult to discern. However, a shallow dihedral on the NW edge draws the eye. The less-steep North face also invites the adventuresome but has more lichen.

Expect some lichen and loose rock if you explore here. There is room for more lines for those willing to explore. Expect some shade.

You can descend off to the East on steep slopes. No anchor currently exists on its top.

Several new routes were added in the fall of 2005.

L->R:

A. It's My Swamp, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
B. Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)), 12-, 1p, bolts & gear.
C. War is Love, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
D. Tipskin Jihad, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Teenage Terrorists, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Romancing the Stone, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
G. Nala, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
H. Tese, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
I. No Direction Home, 11-, 1p, 45' or 95', bolts.
J. Scarecrow, 8+, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Go to Boulder. Drive W on CO Hwy 119 (aka Canyon). Drive W about 7 mi upstream past Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock. Park in a nice pullout with some shady trees on the S side of the road below the Bihedral. Walk 150 yards downstream to a tyrolean traverse that starts on a big flat boulder and goes to a big tree on the far side. Cross the tyrolean and head left on a trail heading downstream. After a few minutes you'll reach Witches' Tower near the route Romancing the Stone. Just uphill and right from this is Sherwood Forest.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Witches' Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Nice summer destination. Stays shady and cool until 1 PM or so. Aug 7, 2011
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
I agree that this is a good tower, but better than anything at SF? No way! It's a worthy stop, but Sherwood KILLS this place. Jun 16, 2008
We did a couple of routes here one day after making a fairly comprehensive tour of Sherwood Forest. I thought the two climbs here were better than almost everything at SF. Remarkable that this cliff which is passed on the approach to SF went ignored for so long. Jul 28, 2006

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