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Routes in Witches' Tower

It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+
Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tipskin Jihad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
War is Love S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wisk, The V0 4
Witch Hunt V10-11 8A
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Ron Olsen
Page Views: 2,322 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 25, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


83 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start just right of Tese. Climb up fun layback moves to a small roof. Clip a bolt and make a strenuous move up to the next clip. Power up and over the bigger roof to good holds. Power over the roof past six more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Protection

Ten clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
It would have been better to easily clip the bolt at the roof from the stance below it, instead of clipping it off of the steep greasy sidepull (I didn't find the hidden jug until afterwards). Felt like an 11c clip with 5.10 climbing. Jun 14, 2012
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.11a/b
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.11a/b
It is possible to walk off to the west from the top of this route. As of now, it's quite steep, brushy ,and loose. That said, it's probably just as easy to rap...carefully. Jul 11, 2011
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
I agree, really fun. An optimistic attitude will be rewarded. Might be a little height dependent.
There's a lowering anchor one more bolt past the crux roof, which I unwittingly used, so can't comment on the upper part.

Went back today (9/15/17) and did the upper section. It's worth doing once. You wouldn't miss much if you skipped it. Jun 14, 2011
Aeon Aki

  5.11a
Aeon Aki    
  5.11a
Tony B sums it up perfectly.

I counted 12 + 2 to the top chains. Jul 18, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Good climb, missed the undercling under the roof and was happy to get the jugs after matchin' on those little crimps. Still, not harder than 11- unless you completely miss something.
It was nice that all the routes went the distance now- it adds some quality and length to them and makes them all the more interesting. The upper arete on this one was fun too. Jun 24, 2008
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Good route! Best I've done at Sherwood. Really fun movement into the roof section. Jul 30, 2007
Quite good from the ground through the roof. Jul 28, 2006