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Routes in Witches' Tower
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It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+ |
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Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tipskin Jihad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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War is Love S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wisk, The V0 4 |
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Witch Hunt V10-11 8A |
| Type: | Trad, 370 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | ? D Thompson, LP |
| Page Views: | 1,537 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 14, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
This route ascends the North face of the lower & upper buttresses or ribs of Witches' Tower & Sherwood Forest with an optional traverse pitch in between them. While currently still scruffy & loose in places, this route could clean up into a nice, low-end moderate. There is room for more trad routes on either buttress. Cross the creek via Tyrolean or wade. Approach along the creek on a decent path. Shortly after the path heads uphill toward the sport climbs on the West face, break off left to the base of the lower chunk of rock. Find the left edge of the North face of Witches' Tower.
P1. This starts on the left edge of the North face of Witches' Tower. Ascend near an arête of sorts, pass a flexing proboscis-like flake. There is a black Alien placement to the right. Stand on it and gain the crux face moves. Move up & right on to easier terrain. Pass some large hanging flakes/boulders on their left. Find a broken ledge system about half height. Continue up wider, lower-angle cracks to the top of the buttress. 120 feet, 5.8.
P2. You can avoid the small gendarmes by moving left or, if you are of the mountaineering spirit, hop a number of small gendarmes (a bit contrived) with the cruxes being on the first & last of these. Note, there are definitely loose blocks, not cleared yet, along this path. Belay at a tree at a notch on the left side of the North face of Sherwood Forest. You can exit here down a steep path-like direction East if needed. 110 feet, 5.7 s.
P3. Continue up the L edge of the N face of Sherwood Forest. Weave in and around cracks, blocks (some of which are loose), as you trend R to the summit of Sherwood Forest. 140 feet, 5.7.
Other lines may be unearthed on Sherwood Forest's N face....
Walk off around the buttresses on the West side on loose scree & connect with the path below the West face sport climbs.
1.12 stars for the line & adventure :)
Little Ogre
P1. This starts on the left edge of the North face of Witches' Tower. Ascend near an arête of sorts, pass a flexing proboscis-like flake. There is a black Alien placement to the right. Stand on it and gain the crux face moves. Move up & right on to easier terrain. Pass some large hanging flakes/boulders on their left. Find a broken ledge system about half height. Continue up wider, lower-angle cracks to the top of the buttress. 120 feet, 5.8.
P2. You can avoid the small gendarmes by moving left or, if you are of the mountaineering spirit, hop a number of small gendarmes (a bit contrived) with the cruxes being on the first & last of these. Note, there are definitely loose blocks, not cleared yet, along this path. Belay at a tree at a notch on the left side of the North face of Sherwood Forest. You can exit here down a steep path-like direction East if needed. 110 feet, 5.7 s.
P3. Continue up the L edge of the N face of Sherwood Forest. Weave in and around cracks, blocks (some of which are loose), as you trend R to the summit of Sherwood Forest. 140 feet, 5.7.
Other lines may be unearthed on Sherwood Forest's N face....
Walk off around the buttresses on the West side on loose scree & connect with the path below the West face sport climbs.
1.12 stars for the line & adventure :)
Little Ogre
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