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Routes in Witches' Tower

It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+
Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tipskin Jihad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
War is Love S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wisk, The V0 4
Witch Hunt V10-11 8A
Type: Trad, 370 ft, 3 pitches
FA: ? D Thompson, LP
Page Views: 1,520 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 14, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route ascends the North face of the lower & upper buttresses or ribs of Witches' Tower & Sherwood Forest with an optional traverse pitch in between them. While currently still scruffy & loose in places, this route could clean up into a nice, low-end moderate. There is room for more trad routes on either buttress. Cross the creek via Tyrolean or wade. Approach along the creek on a decent path. Shortly after the path heads uphill toward the sport climbs on the West face, break off left to the base of the lower chunk of rock. Find the left edge of the North face of Witches' Tower.

P1. This starts on the left edge of the North face of Witches' Tower. Ascend near an arĂȘte of sorts, pass a flexing proboscis-like flake. There is a black Alien placement to the right. Stand on it and gain the crux face moves. Move up & right on to easier terrain. Pass some large hanging flakes/boulders on their left. Find a broken ledge system about half height. Continue up wider, lower-angle cracks to the top of the buttress. 120 feet, 5.8.

P2. You can avoid the small gendarmes by moving left or, if you are of the mountaineering spirit, hop a number of small gendarmes (a bit contrived) with the cruxes being on the first & last of these. Note, there are definitely loose blocks, not cleared yet, along this path. Belay at a tree at a notch on the left side of the North face of Sherwood Forest. You can exit here down a steep path-like direction East if needed. 110 feet, 5.7 s.

P3. Continue up the L edge of the N face of Sherwood Forest. Weave in and around cracks, blocks (some of which are loose), as you trend R to the summit of Sherwood Forest. 140 feet, 5.7.

Other lines may be unearthed on Sherwood Forest's N face....

Walk off around the buttresses on the West side on loose scree & connect with the path below the West face sport climbs.

1.12 stars for the line & adventure :)

Little Ogre

Protection

Wires, Aliens, cams to #3 Camalot.

Photos

ConnerM555
Denver
ConnerM555   Denver
The climb still the same as above^^^^. Lots of loose rocks, the floods may have made it even sketchier. I'm not sure I just know there are loose rocks for days.... May 19, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Not too hard or runout, but certainly an 'adventure climb.' Plenty of lichen and a few loose blocks. The grade on the first pitch seemed about right. No single trip up this thing with a brush will make it clean, but the route would be tremendously improved with a some effort from each of several of the next attempts... take a brush. Also, perhaps 50 or 60 feet up there is a flake/spike to the right that someone's second could push off after verifying that the trail is clear. Jun 26, 2008