Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Witches' Tower
|
It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+ |
|
|
Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Tipskin Jihad S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
War is Love S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Wisk, The V0 4 |
|
|
Witch Hunt V10-11 8A |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | ? D Thompson, LP |
| Page Views: | 2,744 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 14, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Details
On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This route ascends the North face of the lower & upper buttresses or ribs of Witches' Tower & Sherwood Forest with an optional traverse pitch in between them. While currently still scruffy & loose in places, this route could clean up into a nice, low-end moderate. There is room for more trad routes on either buttress. Cross the creek via Tyrolean or wade. Approach along the creek on a decent path. Shortly after the path heads uphill toward the sport climbs on the West face, break off left to the base of the lower chunk of rock. Find the left edge of the North face of Witches' Tower.
P1. This starts on the left edge of the North face of Witches' Tower. Ascend near an arête of sorts, pass a flexing proboscis-like flake. There is a black Alien placement to the right. Stand on it, and gain the crux face moves. Move up & right on to easier terrain. Pass some large, hanging flakes/boulders on their left. Find a broken ledge system about half height. Continue up wider, lower-angle cracks to the top of the buttress, 120 feet, 5.8.
P2. You can avoid the small gendarmes by moving left or, if you are of the mountaineering spirit, hop a number of small gendarmes (a bit contrived) with the cruxes being on the first & last of these. Note, there are definitely loose blocks, not cleared yet, along this path. Belay at a tree at a notch on the left side of the North face of Sherwood Forest. You can exit here down a steep path-like direction East if needed, 110 feet, 5.7 S.
P3. Continue up the L edge of the N face of Sherwood Forest. Weave in and around cracks, blocks (some of which are loose), as you trend right to the summit of Sherwood Forest, 140 feet, 5.7.
Other lines may be unearthed on Sherwood Forest's North face....
Walk off around the buttresses on the West side on loose scree, & connect with the path below the West face sport climbs.
1.12 stars for the line & adventure :)
Little Ogre
P1. This starts on the left edge of the North face of Witches' Tower. Ascend near an arête of sorts, pass a flexing proboscis-like flake. There is a black Alien placement to the right. Stand on it, and gain the crux face moves. Move up & right on to easier terrain. Pass some large, hanging flakes/boulders on their left. Find a broken ledge system about half height. Continue up wider, lower-angle cracks to the top of the buttress, 120 feet, 5.8.
P2. You can avoid the small gendarmes by moving left or, if you are of the mountaineering spirit, hop a number of small gendarmes (a bit contrived) with the cruxes being on the first & last of these. Note, there are definitely loose blocks, not cleared yet, along this path. Belay at a tree at a notch on the left side of the North face of Sherwood Forest. You can exit here down a steep path-like direction East if needed, 110 feet, 5.7 S.
P3. Continue up the L edge of the N face of Sherwood Forest. Weave in and around cracks, blocks (some of which are loose), as you trend right to the summit of Sherwood Forest, 140 feet, 5.7.
Other lines may be unearthed on Sherwood Forest's North face....
Walk off around the buttresses on the West side on loose scree, & connect with the path below the West face sport climbs.
1.12 stars for the line & adventure :)
Little Ogre
6 Comments