Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Witches' Tower

It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+
Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tipskin Jihad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
War is Love S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wisk, The V0 4
Witch Hunt V10-11 8A
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Brian Shelton
Page Views: 1,569 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 26, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start on a big boulder that leans against the north face of Witches Tower. Make a high first clip and power up laybacks to series of technical face moves (crux). Reach the third bolt and move right to a short left-facing corner. Climb up passing two more bolts to the anchor. You can place a small stopper or Alien before reaching the anchor. Great climb on good rock. This should clean up nicely and in my opinion is one of the best face pitches in the canyon at this grade.

Protection

Five clips and a small stopper will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
The routes on this little section tend to seep for quite a while after wet weather, and that wet fluffy lichen is super slippery. Jun 29, 2015
JulianG  
I thought the movement was good, but the rock didn't feel that nice. Also, I have done it after it rained earlier in the day. The rock looked dry, but I had a hard time with wet lichen at the 3rd or 4th bolt. The rubber did not want to stick to the rock. Jun 28, 2015
Rich Farnham  
 
I thought this was a pretty good route but was a little confused between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Does the line continue straight up, or angle left to share a few moves with Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))? I tried going straight up but couldn't find a way past the blank spot that felt 11 b/c. Angling left seemed reasonable for the grade but seemed a bit off line.

As Slim said, be careful with the clips. The business is right off the ground on this route. I think blowing the 2nd clip could put you on the starting block as well. You clip from a decent hold, but I recall it feeling tenuous - possibly bad feet? Jun 23, 2015
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Calling this one of the best pitches of the grade in the canyon is pretty silly. There is about 10 feet of climbing on it, then a bunch of meandering up easy dirty/lichen climbing. The protection isn't well thought out either. The 3rd bolt should be lower so you can sneak a quick clip off the lower gaston. In it its current location, the stance is still bad, and if you blow the clip you will probably crater on the starting block. I don't think I would recommend it to somebody breaking into the grade. Aug 13, 2012
Raiden
Royal Oak, MI
Raiden   Royal Oak, MI  
Found the route to be a little dirty with lichen. As someone said above, the four routes on this wall are very close together - bolt lines are about 5-6 feet apart. Jul 18, 2012
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
 
I thought the sequence was fun and devious. Lichen didn't bother me.
This wall is a good addition to the canyon with crimpy, sharp, powerful moves. Apr 24, 2012
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
Disagree. Licheny and disturbingly close to the other routes. Not bad, just not that good either. Jun 21, 2010
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
Made the not-so-clever decision of top-roping this route from the anchors on Romancing the Stone, located high on the arete formed by the N and W faces. It seemed like it would be the easiest way to top rope this and the other two routes on the N face by simply moving a directional runner each time (the RTS anchors are directly above Teenage Terrorists). But there is a lot of loose, funky rock between the top of these north face routes and the anchors on RTS. Our rope dislodged a good-sized block that exploded between my partner and myself. Suggest if you want to top-rope here, use the actual route anchors instead.

Btw, War is Love has some really good moves on positive holds. Jun 27, 2008
Surprisingly good -- better than almost every climb at Sherwood Forest -- but by no means a classic. Needs brushing. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt. Jul 28, 2006