Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen, Rolo Garibotti, Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,519 total · 12/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is the second route in from the right (so, third from the left) on the north face of Witches' Tower. It climbs directly out the wall above the Vee between the two big blocks, to join the anchors on Teenage Terrorists. Sustained and bouldery down low to mellower climbing up high.


This ascends the center of the north face of Witches' Tower.


Five bolts -- either stick-clip, or pre-clip the first bolt on the way down from one of the other routes. (Good Beta: warm up your fingers on War is Love, the 11c/d just left, then pre-rig this one on the way down.)


Mark Wiranowski  
The climbing through the first three bolts is very continuous and a very hard onsight. It helps to have the belayer stay close to the wall, b/c otherwise the leader swings into the rope. May 30, 2012

Kind of a lame route. Climbing straight up the bolt line is way hard. On my second attempt with weather rolling in, I eeked out right and felt kind of dirty. According to the guidebook, this is the way to go, but it would have been nice if the bolts followed the climbing better. Jun 8, 2014
Alon Dahari
Bend, OR
  5.12a/b PG13
Alon Dahari   Bend, OR
  5.12a/b PG13
Slim, we climbed it today straight through the bolt line, and it felt right at the grade and pretty fun. I wouldn't say it's a lame route, because it's dirty if you go off route. Jun 5, 2016
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
Straight up the bolt line is hard. Brutal fingertip abuse. Not lame. Felt stout for 12b. Harder than the 12b to the right. Jun 19, 2017
Went back and reclimbed this 9 years after the FA. You can go straight up the bolts using very thin double-gastons at probably 5.12c. Or stay slightly right of center, taking the right-gaston holds with your left hand, at around 12b. Either way the bolts are totally clippable and all options are "on." Still need to get back and remove the old spinner up high. Maybe someday.... Jun 29, 2017