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Routes in Witches' Tower

It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+
Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tipskin Jihad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
War is Love S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wisk, The V0 4
Witch Hunt V10-11 8A
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
Page Views: 1,120 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is cool stemming through the downward-pointing roofs. Excellent climbing and good gear the whole way.

Location

Start just left of Tese, make a committing move up to a flake/horn, sling the horn and step up to a good crack system, follow the left-leaning crack to the roofs, stem and make wild moves into a shallow corner, and follow the nice corner to the anchor of Tese.

Protection

Gear up to a gold Camalot. Bring extra greens. Rap from the two-bolt ring anchor of "Tese".

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
I was able to make some sense out of the line tonight and did it, but it felt tight between Tese and Romancing... if someone is on one or the other, this one is too close to climb comfortably. The route can certainly be done without the bolt, as an Alien goes in just before the roof crux, but at and above the roof you do a few moves that are not super-well-protected. Jun 26, 2008
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
Was this climb retro-bolted? I climbed a route to the left of Tese that seemed to share the same start as Romancing the Stone, but went through the small, tiered roof system and then up the north face of an arete to the top of the buttress. There's a photo topo posted in the Romancing the Stone route with a small bush under the tiered roof system that has been cut out and a bolt was placed above it. Maybe it's just a bolted variation of Romancing the Stone? Jun 25, 2008