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Routes in Witches' Tower

It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+
Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tipskin Jihad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
War is Love S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wisk, The V0 4
Witch Hunt V10-11 8A
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Greg Hand, Bob D'Antonio, Irina Overeem, Ron Olsen and Kent Lugbill
Page Views: 4,654 total, 31/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 21, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


140 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start right of Romancing the Stone. Climb up a cool face making nice moves on edges and knobs past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be place before the third bolt. Make cool moves stemming up and over several small overhangs to the anchor.

ADD on: 6/10/08...Greg Hand and Bob D just added a extension past the anchor climbing along a cool arete with great moves. The route is now 100 feet long and 11 bolts. Be careful lowering as a 60-meter rope just makes it to the ground.

A great addition and one of the best 5.10 sport routes in the Canyon.

Protection

Ten clips and a yellow Alien will get you to a two-bolt anchor.
T G
Colorado
 
T G   Colorado
 
As of late September 2015, the first bolt is somewhat bent and very loose-- likely should be replaced. Oct 12, 2015
Raiden
Royal Oak, MI
  5.10-
Raiden   Royal Oak, MI  
  5.10-
Very nice route. Bring a couple slings to reduce rope drag.

Don't need any gear if you are solid on the grade. Jul 18, 2012
Jeff Chrisler
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Jeff Chrisler   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Definitely one of the best 10s in the canyon. Awesome climbing and a nice extension. I found myself smiling every time I put a hand somewhere on the rock where I thought a hold would be, it was there pleasantly. Getting to the first bolt can be one crux depending on how you do it, and the second is the roof. Once that's done, it drops down to very pleasant 5.8 climbing. Do it! Apr 26, 2012
Grant Gerhard
Denver, CO
 
Grant Gerhard   Denver, CO
 
Holy crap was this one was fun. Couldn't wipe the smile off my face afterwards. Aug 27, 2011
Patrick Shwartz
Thornton, CO
  5.10a/b
Patrick Shwartz   Thornton, CO
  5.10a/b
After getting past the first slabby part (crux), the route changes into this cool, chunky roof followed by a beautifully exposed arete. Amazing, sustained climb. Aug 26, 2011
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
Possibly the best 10a sport route in the canyon, I can't think of any better ones off hand. From the moment you leave the ground until you clip the anchors, the climbing is good and fun. The rock is really cool and has a lot of different and interesting features. Be really careful as a 60m just barely gets you back to the ground. Aug 24, 2011
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
Nice line with interesting climbing. Jul 28, 2011
Katie W
 
Katie W  
 
This route is full of fun moves with really excellent climbing all the way to the top. I personally found the committing move just before the third bolt to be too disconcerting to attempt without the added pro; my partner, however, did not have a problem relying solely on the bolts. Sep 26, 2010
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Ken, thanks for the reminder. I meant to make that note when we put in Scarecrow, we removed the intermediate anchor. I will change my comment above. Aug 5, 2008
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Greg Hand wrote: "We have left the 2-bolt anchor at the half way point for climbers with shorter ropes."

The midway anchor is no longer there. One of the bolts has been cut and the other bolt has only a hangar on it now. One can traverse to No Direction Home if you have a short rope, but going to the top provides very fun climbing. Aug 5, 2008
Great route! The extension makes this climb a great pitch - thanks to the FAs. The lower section (overhangs) has a few spots of interesting rock, though. I remember tapping a hand-hold and feeling my feet reverberate... (just after finishing the overhang). Jul 21, 2008
djoseph
 
djoseph  
 
What a great climb. With the new extension, there are four sections: a thin slabby part followed by a blocky roof section, then a fun arete and finally a relaxed corner at the top. Agree with Bob that this is one of the best 10s in the canyon. Thanks Greg and Bob for extending it! (Note that you need 11 draws plus anchors... skipped the alien myself, and seemed fine.) Jul 13, 2008
Dan Brockway
Boulder
Dan Brockway   Boulder
I did the extension today and thought it made the climb much more classic and enjoyable. Thanks for the work guys. Jun 26, 2008
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
Really good route. I thought the crux was right off the ground. The extension portion really has a lot of lichen still. Jun 16, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Tese has been extended to 100 feet.
Now you need 11 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.
A 60 meter rope gets you down. Tie a knot to be sure.
The second half is easier than the first and has fun climbing on the arete. There is no longer an anchor at the half way point. If you have a 50 meter rope, you may need to go to the anchor on No Direction Home or Scarecrow to the right. Jun 10, 2008
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Heady bottom section for a 10. nice and balancy. Did without the added pro with no problem. I would call this 10c to be consistent with the area not 10-. Definitely worth doing. Jul 23, 2007
ac
  5.10a
ac  
  5.10a
Short & a tad forced, but pretty cool nonetheless! Sep 28, 2005
kyle lefkoff
  5.10a
kyle lefkoff  
  5.10a
A high-quality short line climbs an interesting feature. Kudos to Bob and his team for this fine effort. Sep 28, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
An excellent, sustained route with varied moves.

If you're headed to Sherwood Forest, stop here first and do this route! Sep 23, 2005