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Tese

5.10-, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3 from 246 votes
FA: Greg Hand, Bob D'Antonio, Irina Overeem, Ron Olsen and Kent Lugbill
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Witches' Tower
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

Start right of Romancing the Stone. Climb up a cool face making nice moves on edges and knobs past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be place before the third bolt. Make cool moves stemming up and over several small overhangs to the anchor.

ADD on: 6/10/08...Greg Hand and Bob D just added a extension past the anchor climbing along a cool arete with great moves. The route is now 100 feet long and 11 bolts. Be careful lowering as a 60-meter rope just makes it to the ground.

A great addition and one of the best 5.10 sport routes in the Canyon.

Protection

Ten clips and a yellow Alien will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

or

Per Benedict Rasmussen: 11 clips to a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tese (pronounced "Tessie") climbs a steep face past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be placed in a finger crack after the second bolt. Move left and climb a fun stemming corner and a roof at the top.
[Hide Photo] Tese (pronounced "Tessie") climbs a steep face past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be placed in a finger crack after the second bolt. Move left and climb a fun stemming corner and a roof at the top.
Irina moving up to the overhang near the top.
[Hide Photo] Irina moving up to the overhang near the top.
Irina Overeem making the thin moves past the second bolt.
[Hide Photo] Irina Overeem making the thin moves past the second bolt.
Greg Hand at the second bolt on the first ascent.<br>
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Sustained, varied climbing from bottom to top makes Tese (pronounced "Tessie") an excellent and fun route.
[Hide Photo] Greg Hand at the second bolt on the first ascent. Sustained, varied climbing from bottom to top makes Tese (pronounced "Tessie") an excellent and fun route.
Approaching the third bolt.
[Hide Photo] Approaching the third bolt.
Cruising up Tese.
[Hide Photo] Cruising up Tese.
Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.
[Hide Photo] Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.
Greg Hand in the airy corner near the top of the route.
[Hide Photo] Greg Hand in the airy corner near the top of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] An excellent, sustained route with varied moves.

If you're headed to Sherwood Forest, stop here first and do this route! Sep 23, 2005
Kyle Lefkoff
Boulder
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A high-quality short line climbs an interesting feature. Kudos to Bob and his team for this fine effort. Sep 28, 2005
ac
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Short & a tad forced, but pretty cool nonetheless! Sep 28, 2005
desbien
seattle,wa
[Hide Comment] Heady bottom section for a 10. nice and balancy. Did without the added pro with no problem. I would call this 10c to be consistent with the area not 10-. Definitely worth doing. Jul 23, 2007
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Tese has been extended to 100 feet.
Now you need 11 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.
A 60 meter rope gets you down. Tie a knot to be sure.
The second half is easier than the first and has fun climbing on the arete. There is no longer an anchor at the half way point. If you have a 50 meter rope, you may need to go to the anchor on No Direction Home or Scarecrow to the right. Jun 10, 2008
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Really good route. I thought the crux was right off the ground. The extension portion really has a lot of lichen still. Jun 16, 2008
Dan Brockway
Boulder
[Hide Comment] I did the extension today and thought it made the climb much more classic and enjoyable. Thanks for the work guys. Jun 26, 2008
djoseph
 
[Hide Comment] What a great climb. With the new extension, there are four sections: a thin slabby part followed by a blocky roof section, then a fun arete and finally a relaxed corner at the top. Agree with Bob that this is one of the best 10s in the canyon. Thanks Greg and Bob for extending it! (Note that you need 11 draws plus anchors... skipped the alien myself, and seemed fine.) Jul 13, 2008
[Hide Comment] Great route! The extension makes this climb a great pitch - thanks to the FAs. The lower section (overhangs) has a few spots of interesting rock, though. I remember tapping a hand-hold and feeling my feet reverberate... (just after finishing the overhang). Jul 21, 2008
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Greg Hand wrote: "We have left the 2-bolt anchor at the half way point for climbers with shorter ropes."

The midway anchor is no longer there. One of the bolts has been cut and the other bolt has only a hangar on it now. One can traverse to No Direction Home if you have a short rope, but going to the top provides very fun climbing. Aug 5, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Ken, thanks for the reminder. I meant to make that note when we put in Scarecrow, we removed the intermediate anchor. I will change my comment above. Aug 5, 2008
Katie W
 
[Hide Comment] This route is full of fun moves with really excellent climbing all the way to the top. I personally found the committing move just before the third bolt to be too disconcerting to attempt without the added pro; my partner, however, did not have a problem relying solely on the bolts. Sep 26, 2010
Guy Kenny Jr
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Nice line with interesting climbing. Jul 28, 2011
slim

  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Possibly the best 10a sport route in the canyon, I can't think of any better ones off hand. From the moment you leave the ground until you clip the anchors, the climbing is good and fun. The rock is really cool and has a lot of different and interesting features. Be really careful as a 60m just barely gets you back to the ground. Aug 24, 2011
Patrick Shwartz
Thornton, CO
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] After getting past the first slabby part (crux), the route changes into this cool, chunky roof followed by a beautifully exposed arete. Amazing, sustained climb. Aug 26, 2011
Grant Gerhard
Verdi, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Holy crap was this one was fun. Couldn't wipe the smile off my face afterwards. Aug 27, 2011
Jeff Chrisler
Boulder, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Definitely one of the best 10s in the canyon. Awesome climbing and a nice extension. I found myself smiling every time I put a hand somewhere on the rock where I thought a hold would be, it was there pleasantly. Getting to the first bolt can be one crux depending on how you do it, and the second is the roof. Once that's done, it drops down to very pleasant 5.8 climbing. Do it! Apr 26, 2012
Matt Looby
Cincinnati, OH
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Very nice route. Bring a couple slings to reduce rope drag.

Don't need any gear if you are solid on the grade. Jul 18, 2012
John Maurer
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best 10a sport routes in CO. A destination route, methinks. Oct 7, 2020
Benedict Rasmussen
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Excellent warm-up route before on the way to Sherwood Forest! Jun 6, 2022
WF WF51
 
[Hide Comment] Decent route, 1.5 stars. Jan 21, 2023