Elevation: 9,084 ft
GPS: 40.29, -105.5457
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 903,484 total · 4,384/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This stretch of crags includes a vast array of smaller crags with granitic, gneiss, and schist rock with routes up to perhaps 600 feet in length. For those seeking a quieter, more peaceful experience, there is much to enjoy here. We do share a minority of this terrain with a different crowd who enjoys motorized travel & teenage frivolity in the National Forests. Stretches of Twin Sisters are utilized in the fall by hunters. Some areas are better accessed with high-clearance 4WD transportation.

For the most part, these crags are traditionally protected, although a few crags along here have been tamed with fixed protection. Much of the cragging here lies at altitudes between 8-11,000 feet. Some stretches lies on private land (e.g. Fish Creek Pinnacles), so be careful to check on some of these lesser-known areas if you go exploring. There are few roadside crags along here, many rocks require an approach of up to 90 minutes.

Some of the more popular (still backwater) areas along here include: The Crags (Twin Sisters), Jurassic Park (Lily Lake), Ironclads (Allenspark), Lily Mountain, the Thumb & Needle (Prospect Mt), Deville Rocks (accessed with permission of Cheley Camps) but there is much more. So, come and explore.

Getting There

CO Hwy 7 (which is part of the Peak to Peak Highway) extends from Estes Park, south through Allenspark, and veers east through South St. Vrain Canyon to Lyons. The section here describes crags between Estes Park and the top of South St. Vrain Canyon.

From Estes Park, head south on CO Hwy 7 off US 36.

From Denver, head north on I-25, go NW on US 36 through the town of Boulder to Lyons. At the T junction you have two choices. To access the southern crags, you can go left (south), up CO Hwy 7, winding up South St. Vrain Canyon. At the top of the canyon, you go straight which continues north toward Estes Park. To access the northern crags, you can go north at the T junction on US 36 to Estes Park. Then head south on CO Hwy 7 shortly after passing Lake Estes.

To access this from the central or western side of the state, you can drive up the Peak to Peak Highway off I-70, through Central City, Rollinsville, Nederland, etc., but this is a winding drive.

356 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 237
Coloradoddity
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 82
Shaking the Pope's Hand
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 74
Return of the King
Sport 5 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 130
Gilded Lily
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 100
Crystal Staircase
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 771
Edge of Time
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 157
CG's Naked Fun Time
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 104
Critical Morass
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 120
Slabbed Up-Side da Head
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 127
Wizard's Path
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 107
Dynamometer
Trad, Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 82
The Guillotine
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 71
Take Me to Your Leader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 116
The Gatekeeper
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 167
Andrology
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coloradoddity Jurassic Park -… > Big Ass Slab?
 237
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Shaking the Pope's Hand Ironclads > Mt Boner
 82
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Return of the King Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
Gilded Lily Jurassic Park -… > Left Hand Rock
 130
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Crystal Staircase Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate
 100
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Edge of Time Jurassic Park -… > Fin
 771
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
CG's Naked Fun Time Jurassic Park -… > Fin
 157
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Critical Morass Jurassic Park -… > Big Ass Slab?
 104
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Slabbed Up-Side da Head Jurassic Park -… > Fin
 120
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wizard's Path Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate
 127
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dynamometer Jurassic Park -… > Fin
 107
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
The Guillotine Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate
 82
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Take Me to Your Leader Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate
 71
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
The Gatekeeper Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate
 116
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Andrology Jurassic Park -… > Fin
 167
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR
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