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Wizard's Gate Rock Climbing
Routes in Wizard's Gate
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Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arrival, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Cloak and Dagger S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Horse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gizmo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone Potion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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White Raven, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 10,200 ft |
| GPS: | 40.304, -105.522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 35,423 total · 324/month |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Description
North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.
Getting There
Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.
Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.
Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.
L->R:
A. Fantasia, 12- R, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Dark Horse, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Witchway Arete, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
D1. Variation, 11, 1p, 95', TR.
D2. Ravenclaw, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 1p, 95'.
E. Riding With The Ravens, 11, 1p, 95', bolts.
F1. G3, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
F2. Crystal Staircase, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Dead End, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
H. The Guillotine, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
continuining above H. Afterlife, 12+, 110', bolts.
IJ. Merlin's Magic Corner, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
J. Wizard's Path, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
K. Take Me To Your Leader, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. The Gatekeeper, 12- PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts.
M. Magic Carpet Ride , 13+, 1p, 90', bolts.
MN. Magic Dagger, 13-, 1p, 90', bolts.
NM. Black Magic , 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Cloak and Dagger, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Book of Spells, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Dark Horse, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Witchway Arete, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
D1. Variation, 11, 1p, 95', TR.
D2. Ravenclaw, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 1p, 95'.
E. Riding With The Ravens, 11, 1p, 95', bolts.
F1. G3, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
F2. Crystal Staircase, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Dead End, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
H. The Guillotine, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
continuining above H. Afterlife, 12+, 110', bolts.
IJ. Merlin's Magic Corner, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
J. Wizard's Path, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
K. Take Me To Your Leader, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. The Gatekeeper, 12- PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts.
M. Magic Carpet Ride , 13+, 1p, 90', bolts.
MN. Magic Dagger, 13-, 1p, 90', bolts.
NM. Black Magic , 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Cloak and Dagger, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Book of Spells, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Wizard's Gate
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
13 Comments
More About Wizard's Gate
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Guidebooks (11)
his truck
You can expect a number of additions within the next few weeks, but in the mean time there is plenty to sink your teeth into. Enjoy! Aug 23, 2009
Boulder,Co.
Missoula, MT
Can I go by "Hard Rock" rather than Diet Coke. That's the pen name I used when I did some writing in the '80s. Sep 8, 2009
his truck
Estes Park, CO
Estes Park, CO
Estes Park, CO
Besides that, awesome crag, thanks for developing! Aug 17, 2016
Fort Collins, CO
Golden, CO