Elevation: 10,200 ft
GPS: 40.304, -105.522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 66,274 total · 501/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED Details

Description

North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.

Per Ken Duncan: this is the central section of the Lower Great Face. Currently the the Lower Great Face has routes left and right of Wizard's Gate and Wizard's Gate has its own area. It would make more sense to have sub areas in Lower Great Face with a right Lower Great Face, Wizard's Gate, and left Lower Great Face.

Getting There

Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.

Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.

L->R:

A. Fantasia, 12- R, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Dark Horse, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Witchway Arete, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
D1. Variation, 11, 1p, 95', TR.
D2. Ravenclaw, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 1p, 95'.
E. Riding With The Ravens, 11, 1p, 95', bolts.
F1. G3, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
F2. Crystal Staircase, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Dead End, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
H. The Guillotine, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
continuining above H. Afterlife, 12+, 110', bolts.
IJ. Merlin's Magic Corner, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
J. Wizard's Path, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
K. Take Me To Your Leader, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. The Gatekeeper, 12- PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts.
M. Magic Carpet Ride , 13+, 1p, 90', bolts.
MN. Magic Dagger, 13-, 1p, 90', bolts.
NM. Black Magic , 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Cloak and Dagger, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Book of Spells, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wizard's Gate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Gizmo
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Crystal Staircase
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 40
Dark Horse
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 74
Wizard's Path
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 40
G3
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
The White Raven
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 33
Riding with the Ravens
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 48
The Guillotine
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 48
Take Me to Your Leader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 76
The Gatekeeper
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
Afterlife
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 32
Magic Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 17
Cloak and Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 10
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 5
Black Magic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gizmo
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crystal Staircase
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dark Horse
 40
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wizard's Path
 74
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
G3
 40
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The White Raven
 25
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Riding with the Ravens
 33
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Guillotine
 48
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Take Me to Your Leader
 48
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Gatekeeper
 76
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Afterlife
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Magic Dagger
 32
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cloak and Dagger
 17
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Magic Carpet Ride
 10
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Black Magic
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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