All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Trib… > Crags

Wizard's Gate Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Wizard's Gate

L › R R › L A › Z

	Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Arrival, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Cloak and Dagger S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dark Horse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Edgy Wizard, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gizmo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gremlin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	PB & Jeli Legs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Stone Potion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	White Raven, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wizard's Key S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	10,200 ft
GPS:	40.303, -105.524 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	82,391 total · 574/month
Shared By:	Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED Details

Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required.

Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.

Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.

Description

North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.

Per Ken Duncan: this is the central section of the Lower Great Face. Currently the the Lower Great Face has routes left and right of Wizard's Gate and Wizard's Gate has its own area. It would make more sense to have sub areas in Lower Great Face with a right Lower Great Face, Wizard's Gate, and left Lower Great Face.

Getting There

Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.

Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.

L->R:

A. Fantasia, 12- R, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Dark Horse, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Witchway Arete, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
D1. Variation, 11, 1p, 95', TR.
D2. ?Ravenclaw?, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 1p, 95'.
E. Riding With The Ravens, 11, 1p, 95', bolts.
F1. G3, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
F2. Crystal Staircase, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Dead End, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
H. The Guillotine, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
continuining above H. Afterlife, 12+, 110', bolts.
IJ. Merlin's Magic Corner, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
J. Wizard's Path, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
K. Take Me To Your Leader, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. The Gatekeeper, 12- PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts.
M. Magic Carpet Ride , 13+, 1p, 90', bolts.
MN. Magic Dagger, 13-, 1p, 90', bolts.
NM. Black Magic , 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Cloak and Dagger, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Book of Spells, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wizard's Gate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 22 ● Gizmo Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 72 ● Crystal Staircase Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 59 ● Witchway Arete Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 17 ● Merlin's Magic Corner Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 48 ● Dark Horse Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 94 ● Wizard's Path Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 47 ● G3 Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 37 ● The White Raven Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 40 ● Riding with the Ravens Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 66 ● The Guillotine Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 60 ● Take Me to Your Leader Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 90 ● The Gatekeeper Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 24 ● Afterlife Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 37 ● Magic Dagger Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a 19 ● Cloak and Dagger Sport