Elevation: 10,200 ft
GPS: 40.304, -105.522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 51,207 total · 421/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Tonight
51°F 11°C
Wed
71°F - 49°F 22°C - 9°C
Thu
75°F - 51°F 24°C - 11°C
Fri
75°F - 51°F 24°C - 11°C
Sat
76°F - 52°F 24°C - 11°C
Sun
77°F - 51°F 25°C - 11°C
Mon
74°F - 50°F 23°C - 10°C

Description

North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.

Getting There

Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.

Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.

L->R:

A. Fantasia, 12- R, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Dark Horse, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Witchway Arete, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
D1. Variation, 11, 1p, 95', TR.
D2. Ravenclaw, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 1p, 95'.
E. Riding With The Ravens, 11, 1p, 95', bolts.
F1. G3, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
F2. Crystal Staircase, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Dead End, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
H. The Guillotine, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
continuining above H. Afterlife, 12+, 110', bolts.
IJ. Merlin's Magic Corner, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
J. Wizard's Path, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
K. Take Me To Your Leader, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. The Gatekeeper, 12- PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts.
M. Magic Carpet Ride , 13+, 1p, 90', bolts.
MN. Magic Dagger, 13-, 1p, 90', bolts.
NM. Black Magic , 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Cloak and Dagger, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Book of Spells, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wizard's Gate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Crystal Staircase
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Dark Horse
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 64
Wizard's Path
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 34
G3
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
The White Raven
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
Riding with the Ravens
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 43
The Guillotine
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
The Arrival
Sport 4 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 36
Take Me to Your Leader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 66
The Gatekeeper
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Afterlife
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 29
Magic Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 13
Cloak and Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 8
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 4
Black Magic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crystal Staircase
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dark Horse
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wizard's Path
 64
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
G3
 34
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The White Raven
 16
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Riding with the Ravens
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Guillotine
 43
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Arrival
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 4 pitches
Take Me to Your Leader
 36
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Gatekeeper
 66
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Afterlife
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Magic Dagger
 29
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cloak and Dagger
 13
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Magic Carpet Ride
 8
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Black Magic
 4
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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