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Elevation: 10,286 ft 3,135 m
GPS: 40.30276, -105.52422
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 123,887 total · 687/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.

Per Ken Duncan: this is the central section of the Lower Great Face. Currently the the Lower Great Face has routes left and right of Wizard's Gate and Wizard's Gate has its own area. It would make more sense to have sub areas in Lower Great Face with a right Lower Great Face, Wizard's Gate, and left Lower Great Face.

Getting There Suggest change

Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.

Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.

L->R:

Suggest change

A. Fantasia, 12- R, 1p, 60', gear.

B. The Edgy Wizard, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

C. Return of the King, 8, 5p, 400', bolts.

D. Gizmo, 7, 1p, 50', bolts. 

E.Gremlin, 8, 1p, 65', bolts. 

F. Dark Horse, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.

G. Witchway Arete, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.

H1. Variation, 11, 1p, 95', TR.

H2. ?Ravenclaw?, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 1p, 95'.

I. Riding With The Ravens, 11, 1p, 95', bolts.

J1. G3, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.

J2. Crystal Staircase, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.

K. Dead End, 9, 1p, 50', gear.

L. The Guillotine, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

continuining above L. Afterlife, 12+, 110', bolts.

MN. Merlin's Magic Corner, 10, 1p, 90', gear.

N. Wizard's Path, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.

O. Take Me To Your Leader, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.

P. Stone Potion , 12-, 1p, 65', bolts.

Q. The Gatekeeper, 12- PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts.

R. Magic Carpet Ride , 13+, 1p, 90', bolts.

RS. Magic Dagger, 13-, 1p, 90', bolts.

ST. Black Magic , 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.

T. Cloak and Dagger, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.

U. Book of Spells, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

V. [112134334]], 11, 1p, 100', gear.

W. Wizard's Key, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.

EMS kit and Stokes litter info

Suggest change

On August 11, 2022, an EMS kit and Stokes litter were placed at The Crags as a resource for emergency medical situations. The EMS kit and litter are located next to a tree in the talus below Wizard’s Gate (elevation 10,140 feet., GPS coordinates: 40.30285N, 105.52467W). The location is approximately 300 feet North of the route, Wizard’s Path. The EMS kit contains emergency contacts, diagnostic devices, bandages, and splints but no medications or narcotics of any kind. Please respect this resource, and use it for emergencies only and not for routine medical purposes. In the event of an emergency and use of any materials and supplies in the EMS kit, please contact the current custodian, Bob Siegrist and the EMS kit will be restocked (email: siegrist@mines.edu, cell: 303.359.8427).

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/122976744.

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/122976747.

28 Total Climbs

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Location: C. Wizard's Gate Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wizard's Gate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 119
Return of the King
Sport 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 110
Crystal Staircase
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Merlin's Magic Corner
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 135
Wizard's Path
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
G3
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 61
The White Raven
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Riding with the Ravens
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 92
The Guillotine
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 75
Take Me to Your Leader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 118
The Gatekeeper
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 29
Afterlife
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 51
Magic Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 24
Cloak and Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 12
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 6
Black Magic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Return of the King
 119
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches
Crystal Staircase
 110
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Merlin's Magic Corner
 30
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wizard's Path
 135
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
G3
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The White Raven
 61
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Riding with the Ravens
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Guillotine
 92
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Take Me to Your Leader
 75
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Gatekeeper
 118
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Afterlife
 29
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Magic Dagger
 51
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cloak and Dagger
 24
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Magic Carpet Ride
 12
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Black Magic
 6
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Wizard's Gate »

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