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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arrival, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gizmo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gremlin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Raven, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Key S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.

Getting There

Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.

Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.

L->R:

A. Fantasia, 12- R, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Dark Horse, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Witchway Arete, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
D1. Variation, 11, 1p, 95', TR.
D2. Ravenclaw, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 1p, 95'.
E. Riding With The Ravens, 11, 1p, 95', bolts.
F1. G3, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
F2. Crystal Staircase, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Dead End, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
H. The Guillotine, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
continuining above H. Afterlife, 12+, 110', bolts.
IJ. Merlin's Magic Corner, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
J. Wizard's Path, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
K. Take Me To Your Leader, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. The Gatekeeper, 12- PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts.
M. Magic Carpet Ride , 13+, 1p, 90', bolts.
MN. Magic Dagger, 13-, 1p, 90', bolts.
NM. Black Magic , 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Cloak and Dagger, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Book of Spells, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wizard's Gate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Crystal Staircase
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Dark Horse
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 60
Wizard's Path
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 32
G3
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
The White Raven
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
Riding with the Ravens
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 39
The Guillotine
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
The Arrival
Sport 4 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 36
Take Me to Your Leader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 59
The Gatekeeper
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Afterlife
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 27
Magic Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 12
Cloak and Dagger
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 9
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 5
Black Magic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crystal Staircase
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dark Horse
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wizard's Path
 60
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
G3
 32
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The White Raven
 7
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Riding with the Ravens
 25
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Guillotine
 39
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Arrival
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 4 pitches
Take Me to Your Leader
 36
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Gatekeeper
 59
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Afterlife
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Magic Dagger
 27
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cloak and Dagger
 12
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Magic Carpet Ride
 9
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Black Magic
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Wizard's Gate »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
Truly magic up here.. Big thanks to Dr. Bob, Ben 'B-Real' Randolph, Phat Kat and Ron Lenz, Al and Peg Czecholinski and Kurt 'Hard Rock' Krueger. We have all had a ball running laps on these brilliant routes- hope you do to!

You can expect a number of additions within the next few weeks, but in the mean time there is plenty to sink your teeth into. Enjoy! Aug 23, 2009
Theo Colameco
Boulder,Co.
Theo Colameco   Boulder,Co.
Thanks for posting the new routes!! My partner Bill and I saw y'all heading up there last Thursday after we did the Kor Route on the LGF!! Now we can crag the crags!! Aug 24, 2009
What an awesome crag -- many thanks to Jonathan and his crew for putting up some terrific routes here (and thanks for the tour!). Though currently not a ton of routes at this particular spot, it's possibly the best single-pitch crag (i.e. not including Lumpy, the Park, etc) around Estes, IMO. Really cool rock and great climbing, in a truly gorgeous setting. Well worth the visit, and hopefully more routes will go in -- seems there's plenty of potential for more. Aug 27, 2009
Hard Rock
Missoula, MT
Hard Rock   Missoula, MT
Jon-

Can I go by "Hard Rock" rather than Diet Coke. That's the pen name I used when I did some writing in the '80s. Sep 8, 2009
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
You got it, Hard Rock!! Sep 10, 2009
Just a note. Dogs are not allowed up there. Found out the hard way. Drove all the way up there and didn't realize this crag is in RMNP. Sep 27, 2009
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
The Crags are actually in Roosevelt National Forest, but when you access them from the Twin Sisters trail you have to cross National Park land. If you approach from the Baldpate Inn, across Rt. 7 from Lily Lake, you stay on National Forest land the entire day. The Wizard's Gate, being on the southern end of the Crags, is probably most efficiently approached from the Twin Sisters trail but it's not that much faster than the Baldpate approach. I suspect the route and bolt counts would be much lower if they had to drill by hand. Sep 27, 2009
acouncell
Estes Park, CO
acouncell   Estes Park, CO
We had a great time climbing up there today...psyched on the route/rock quality. Very well done with bolts/pro always where you want it. Thank you Seigrists, Benny, all you guys...you've inspired me to climb in the Crags. Can't wait to get back up there! Jul 3, 2010
Bronson
Estes Park, CO
Bronson   Estes Park, CO
Is there a map or the routes? Planning to go up Friday morning if anyone wants to join. Thanks, B Aug 11, 2010
What is the Baldpate Inn approach beta? Thanks. Jul 13, 2012
Emhov13  
If anyone found a shelljacket up there this week, I will be very happy to see it again.

Besides that, awesome crag, thanks for developing! Aug 17, 2016
Jimmy Burckhard
Fort Collins, CO
Jimmy Burckhard   Fort Collins, CO
I found a BD jacket up at the base of Cloak a couple weeks back. I meant to post earlier, but it slipped my mind due to constant traveling. PM me if it's yours. Aug 24, 2016
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
In early June, the slabbier climbs (Guillotine to Take Me to Your Leader) start going into the sun around 2 or 2:30. The cave stayed shady possibly all day. 71 degrees in Estes was a little chilly in the morning but tolerable with puffy. Jun 2, 2018
The summer of 2018 has been one of extensive new route development at the Wizard's Gate and surrounding areas. There are new single pitch sport routes and several multi-pitch sport routes that extend to the top of the Lower Great Face. A topo showing several of the new routes is now posted. Check it out! Aug 21, 2018
This place is indeed magical! Also, we completed the "you may very well get lost" portion of the program. A 45 minute approach turned into a very strenuous 3 hour approach. On the way back, we placed cairns on a large rock located near the switchback noted in the description to help guide towards the climber's trail (09/02/18). Oct 7, 2018

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