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Wizard's Gate Rock Climbing
Routes in C. Wizard's Gate
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Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arrival (removed July 21, 2022), The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Book of Daggers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Book of Spells S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cloak and Dagger S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Horse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Edgy Wizard, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gizmo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gremlin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once and Future King, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Return of the King S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone Potion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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White Raven, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wizard's Key S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Elevation: | 10,286 ft | 3,135 m |
| GPS: |
40.30276, -105.52422 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 124,865 total · 628/month | |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.
Per Ken Duncan: this is the central section of the Lower Great Face. Currently the the Lower Great Face has routes left and right of Wizard's Gate and Wizard's Gate has its own area. It would make more sense to have sub areas in Lower Great Face with a right Lower Great Face, Wizard's Gate, and left Lower Great Face.
Getting There
Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.
Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.
L->R:
A. Fantasia, 12- R, 1p, 60', gear.
B. The Edgy Wizard, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Return of the King, 8, 5p, 400', bolts.
D. Gizmo, 7, 1p, 50', bolts.
E.Gremlin, 8, 1p, 65', bolts.
F. Dark Horse, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Witchway Arete, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
H1. Variation, 11, 1p, 95', TR.
H2. ?Ravenclaw?, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 1p, 95'.
I. Riding With The Ravens, 11, 1p, 95', bolts.
J1. G3, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
J2. Crystal Staircase, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. Dead End, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
L. The Guillotine, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
continuining above L. Afterlife, 12+, 110', bolts.
MN. Merlin's Magic Corner, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
N. Wizard's Path, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. Take Me To Your Leader, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. Stone Potion , 12-, 1p, 65', bolts.
Q. The Gatekeeper, 12- PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts.
R. Magic Carpet Ride , 13+, 1p, 90', bolts.
RS. Magic Dagger, 13-, 1p, 90', bolts.
ST. Black Magic , 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
T. Cloak and Dagger, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.
U. Book of Spells, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
V. [112134334]], 11, 1p, 100', gear.
W. Wizard's Key, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
EMS kit and Stokes litter info
On August 11, 2022, an EMS kit and Stokes litter were placed at The Crags as a resource for emergency medical situations. The EMS kit and litter are located next to a tree in the talus below Wizard’s Gate (elevation 10,140 feet., GPS coordinates: 40.30285N, 105.52467W). The location is approximately 300 feet North of the route, Wizard’s Path. The EMS kit contains emergency contacts, diagnostic devices, bandages, and splints but no medications or narcotics of any kind. Please respect this resource, and use it for emergencies only and not for routine medical purposes. In the event of an emergency and use of any materials and supplies in the EMS kit, please contact the current custodian, Bob Siegrist and the EMS kit will be restocked (email: siegrist@mines.edu, cell: 303.359.8427).
Classic Climbing Routes at Wizard's Gate
Sun Angles Details:
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