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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
Page Views: 2,825 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

What you can expect after The Guillotine...Afterlife, and this upper portion could be your own personal heaven...or hell. Clip the chains at the top of The Guillotine, and move straight up to a right-trending arch and set of underclings. Clip the first bolt and fire through a beautiful no-holds slab for a long 20 feet to reach an overlap and some easier ground. Continue through multiple mini-roofs and eventually reach anchors. This pitch will stretch your 60 meter rope to its limit, and bend your understanding of what constitutes a usable handhold.

Location

This is an extension to The Guillotine.

Protection

15 bolts from the ground up.

Photos

- No Photos -
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
 
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
 
Really fun, reminded me of a shorter and easier version of JS route 'Voyager One' at the Grail. Nov 28, 2016
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12c
12c slab seems about right. The climbing off of the first set of anchors is stellar, which is followed by 15 feet or so of some desperate friction. Given the bolting at the crux (safe but exciting), it would seem that this was put in ground up. If that is the case, then it must have been exciting firing the crux slab and then getting a hook set on the lip so that the bolt over the roof could be drilled. Pretty proud.

To answer Kenneth's inquiry...don't bother looking for holds at the crux, because it is just plain old, hard, friction slab. May 20, 2014
Colin Kenneth
San Francisco, CA
  5.12+
Colin Kenneth   San Francisco, CA
  5.12+
Holy Moley. This route is super fun. I managed to get to the top of it, but my climbing was utterly devoid of any semblance of grace, and I need to track someone down who can give me some input for the top of the slab.

At the top of the slab less than two feet from the roof, there is a decent (matchable) edge with minimal feet and an orange, lichen covered, left-facing edge that I could feel I was about to peel off the wall. I have a hard time believing that hold has stuck around for many other people to climb the route, so I am interested to hear if anyone has some beta for the transition from the hard slab to the featured area above.

I don't think this lovely route gets much traffic, so expect your first burn to be entirely devoted to finding the invisible holds. Aug 22, 2012
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
BIG props to second and third ascentionists, Tommy Caldwell and Kelly Cordes- firing this rig just minutes after the F.A.! Aug 27, 2009