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The Once and Future King
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 21
votes
Routes in C. Wizard's Gate
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Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arrival (removed July 21, 2022), The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Book of Daggers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Book of Spells S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cloak and Dagger S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Horse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Edgy Wizard, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gizmo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gremlin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once and Future King, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Return of the King S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone Potion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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White Raven, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wizard's Key S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 430 ft (130 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.30276, -105.52422 |
| FA: | Gillett |
| Page Views: | 518 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | MattH on Jun 15, 2025 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
This line (the original 'Return of the King', here renamed for clarity) parallels left of what's now known as Return of the King and features fun, juggy roofs and face moves, making it a great step up from that route. It has well-bolted cruxes and G-rated bolt spacing.
P1. Start up the first 3/4ths of RoTK's P1, then branch left up the line of bolts that head up the face into the right-facing dihedral where a fun, exposed pull leads to the P1 anchors, 5.8/9.
P2: head straight up the face where a few fun thin but positive moves up a faint dihedral lead to the anchor, 5.10-.
P3: some thin moves up and right off the belay lead to another fun, juggy pull through the roof dihedral, 5.9/10-.
P4. Climb cruiser moves on big holds ~5-10' left of ROTK's bolt line lead to the next belay shared with that route, 5.7.
P5. ROTK's final pitch features another dihedral roof pull on huge holds, 5.7/8,
Location
Begin at a shared start with ROTK, branching left about 80' up. A bolt 5' left of the ROTK's bolts will be obvious on the face near the top of the pitch, and further bolts head up and left from there. Eventually there's a single bolt in the roof of the orange dihedral protecting the exposed pull to the P1 anchors.
To descend, walk climber's left, and then contour down the backside (non-technical) to reach the talus which can be followed back down to the base. For the most stable rock, follow the base of Upper Great Face until you hit the line of trees through the talus, and then head straight down from there, cutting left only at the last second in order to maximize the time spent on the more solid, bigger talus.
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