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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob Siegrist
Page Views: 1,854 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The dark horse of the crag...climbs much better than it looks. This climb ascends the slab at the far left side of Wizard's Gate. Clip the first bolt from a stance on a big crack system. From here, follow the bolt line up and through an overlap, utilizing a number of underclings and a few jugs. The upper portion wanders back right towards the chains and finishes with a nice, technical crux.

Location

This is on the far left side of the crag, about 50 feet left of Crystal Staircase. It is the leftmost bolted line.

Protection

6 bolts and chains.

Photos

A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Very enjoyable slab fun. I would recommend you are solid at the grade before leading this. The bolts are where you need then, but a fall commiting by the roof wouldn't be fun. Jul 3, 2017

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