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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, 2009
Page Views: 3,653 total, 36/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

You might want to empty your bladder before a lead on this stunning climb.

Move up a right-leaning ramp before reaching out left to the first holds and clip. Climb up a mostly featured slab and through increasingly technical ground to an overlap. Clip up and fire an awesome series of moves through a small arching corner. From a horizontal crack, clip up and take a few deep breaths before entering the technical (and mental) crux slab. This panel of rock is amazing and will surely leave a lasting impression on anyone who leads it. Finish on some enjoyable, moderate climbing for 3 bolts to the anchors.

This is an absolute classic that is reminiscent of the crux pitch on the alpine route, 'Spear Me the Details'.

Location

This is on the right side of a large, beautiful slab next to Wizard's Path.

Protection

9 bolts and chains.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11c/d
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11c/d
Move for move I didn't think there was anything harder on this pitch than on The Guillotine, but there is significantly more sustained difficulties and a heady run between bolts to keep it invigorating. Great, long, difficult pitch and a great lead at the grade. Jul 16, 2017
seanmo63
  5.11
seanmo63  
  5.11
Excellent. I agree that the crux was the overlap below the slab as opposed to the slab itself. Sep 3, 2016
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
This route really stands out as a classic in the area with fantastic edging and engaging features but IMO is no harder than the neighboring Guillotine. The first overlap has awesome movement at about 11-, and the striking panel above felt like one move of mid 5.11 on perfect knobs. Don't hesitate to jump on this one if you are just breaking into the stated grade...super fun and not as taxing as these guys are describing, though the bolt is below your feet for the crux. Jul 17, 2016
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
I managed to flash a bunch of routes here including the Magic Dagger (13a), and I still fell on this one. Tricky, sustained face climbing that's a bit licheny and hard to read due to the absence of chalk. Felt a wee bit run out in spots, too. Overall, a great route that will clean up nicely with some more ascents. May need a date with Mr. Brush. Enjoy!! Jun 20, 2013
Classic and highly engaging face climbing. We thought the crux was the whole passage up to, through, and past the overlap. The blank panel above was technical and frightening, but slightly easier. I'd give this four stars except for the unnecessary run-out on this second crux; it would have been better to move the bolt lower and then let people place a piece in the horizontal crack above the panel. Still, an amazing climb. If this route is near your limit, like it was for me, you'll likely be somewhat shattered after a lead...don't plan to do much else the rest of the day! Aug 23, 2010