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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
Page Views: 3,501 total, 35/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Sep 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Begin on the far left side of the alcove and do a couple moves up and right on a slab to the first bolt. From here, weave up right and then back left on good quality stone through interesting, varied moves to the perch. Be mindful of loose rock while enjoying the killer view and even better rest. Start left of the bolt at the perch and climb the final 30 feet of increasing difficulty on steep rock to the chains. This climb offers an excellent warm up for the hard climbs in the area and also stays completely dry (as do the others in the alcove) during the rain.

Location

This is to the left of 'Magic Carpet Ride', a hundred feet right of 'Take Me to Your Leader'.

Protection

8 liberally spaced bolts to chains.

Photos

lenore sparks
Denver, Colorado
 
lenore sparks   Denver, Colorado
 
Super fun, sporty route, Jonathan! Jun 28, 2016
B Bloxom
Bishop, California
 
B Bloxom   Bishop, California
 
Really good route. Looks a bit mungy from below but climbs really well. The big ledge below the crux section is covered in raven shit and smells pretty bad. I had two angry ravens screaming at me the whole time. I looked in the nest and didnt see any babies, but be ready to battle some ravens for the chains on this one. Jul 6, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
I just did this route, and there was some very angry ravens guarding a nest of newborn babies (which happens to sit in the route). Be cautious as the birds were very aggressive and did some gnarly flybys trying to probably peck my eyes out. Made my send pretty exciting though in the midst if being attacked by some big ass birds.... Jun 20, 2013
Colin Kenneth
San Francisco, CA
  5.11d
Colin Kenneth   San Francisco, CA
  5.11d
This was a really nice bit of climbing. I agree with the above comparison to Andrology. If not for the constant opportunities to rest and really positive holds, I'd call it 12a. But as it stands, if you are expecting the last 20 feet of amped up climbing, you can refuel and prepare for it to wrangle in the difficulty quite a bit. I'd call it the hard end of 11d, because I'm not cool enough to onsight a long 12a like this. Aug 22, 2012
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11d
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11d
Absolutely spectacular, steep 'n' exposed on juggy/heel-hooking madness with the crux at the very, very end. Worth the price of the hike alone.

That said, I'm gonna suggest this guy is 11d. It's hard, but with the multiple no-hands rests, it's not nearly as hard as, say, Red Neck Hero, Lyons ( mountainproject.com/v/redne…), Andrology, Estes--which started out as an 11d ( mountainproject.com/v/andro…), or Sargasso Sea, Boulder ( mountainproject.com/v/sarga…).

Having said THAT, my buddy says I'm full 'ave' it and that it's about the experience, not the numbers. So, there you go.

Either way, it's definitely a hero line. Jul 4, 2011