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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob Siegrist
Page Views: 323 total · 3/month
Shared By: Bob Siegrist on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the face and a small, right-facing flake to reach the right corner of the small roof. Carefully clip the 3rd bolt from a stance just to the right of the arete at the corner of the roof. Step up and back left onto the face and follow the bolt line, until reaching the 6th bolt on the Dark Horse. From there, climb up and join the crack system and work your way back right to clip the chains. An alternative, climbs up and right, following the finish of the Dark Horse.

Location

The climb starts on the face just left of the arete that is about 15 feet right of Dark Horse.

Protection

7 bolts with chain anchors (shared with Dark Horse).

Photos

Colin Kenneth
San Francisco, CA
 
Colin Kenneth   San Francisco, CA
 
A good warm up to get the fingers working. I brought my mother up to climb with me today, and she managed it pretty well.

The last bit, between the last bolt and the anchors, felt hard for the grade, compared to the rest of the route. With all of these slab routes, the grades are relative to how comfortable you are in your boots. (The top section of this is really the only slabby portion of this route, specifically.) Perhaps I finished the route via Dark Horse? Aug 22, 2012
Bob Siegrist  
 
On September 10, I added a bolt on the face below the roof to make the opening section more 'comfortably safe' for the aspiring 5.9 leader. Sep 13, 2010

More About Witchway Arete

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