Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Teague
Page Views: 2,230 total, 22/month
Shared By: Teague on Sep 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Merlin escapes the Guillotine via an enjoyable finger and hand crack up changing corners and overlaps. Join The Wizard's Path at its second to last bolt.

Location

It's the left-facing corner right of Guillotine .

Protection

Fallstoppers, springloaded-wedgeclamps and two shiny bolts.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
This route is really, really good. It leads up in difficulty quite nicely and protects, with a bit of thoughtfulness, very well. Honestly, it's a 4 star route and the only thing that detracts from this route is the fact that the crux of the climbing is not independent. Nevertheless, with a single rack in the pack, this pitch makes the hike up the hill worth it! There is currently a fixed #3 BD Stopper above the third overlap. Also, it's possible that the rope could become quite wedged in the first roof/changing corners section; try placing a large stopper there to prevent this from happening, as it makes climbing the upper crux that much more challenging. Jul 6, 2017
Dougald MacDonald  
  5.10c
Terrific climb. Will be 4 stars once it cleans up a little more; there's still some unpleasant lichen in the tricky first 30 feet. Above the lower Guillotine roof more lichen is present but doesn't affect the climbing or the gear placements. Good gear the whole way; RPs are very useful in the middle. Aug 23, 2010
Carl Rene Pelletier
Jackson, Wyoming
Carl Rene Pelletier   Jackson, Wyoming
This place looks pretty cool. A nice addition to the EP climbing scene. Where can I pick up a bagful of "Fallstoppers"? Does the Mountain Shop carry these? Oct 12, 2009