Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Teague
Page Views: 2,512 total · 22/month
Shared By: Teague on Sep 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Merlin escapes the Guillotine via an enjoyable finger and hand crack up changing corners and overlaps. Join The Wizard's Path at its second to last bolt.

Location

It's the left-facing corner right of Guillotine .

Protection

Fallstoppers, springloaded-wedgeclamps and two shiny bolts.

Photos

Carl Rene Pelletier
Jackson, Wyoming
Carl Rene Pelletier   Jackson, Wyoming
This place looks pretty cool. A nice addition to the EP climbing scene. Where can I pick up a bagful of "Fallstoppers"? Does the Mountain Shop carry these? Oct 12, 2009
Dougald MacDonald  
  5.10c
Terrific climb. Will be 4 stars once it cleans up a little more; there's still some unpleasant lichen in the tricky first 30 feet. Above the lower Guillotine roof more lichen is present but doesn't affect the climbing or the gear placements. Good gear the whole way; RPs are very useful in the middle. Aug 23, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10b
This route is really, really good. It leads up in difficulty quite nicely and protects, with a bit of thoughtfulness, very well. Honestly, it's a 4 star route and the only thing that detracts from this route is the fact that the crux of the climbing is not independent. Nevertheless, with a single rack in the pack, this pitch makes the hike up the hill worth it! There is currently a fixed #3 BD Stopper above the third overlap. Also, it's possible that the rope could become quite wedged in the first roof/changing corners section; try placing a large stopper there to prevent this from happening, as it makes climbing the upper crux that much more challenging. Jul 6, 2017