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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, 2009
Page Views: 5,845 total, 58/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a beast of a climb that demands respect. Clipping the chains requires a diverse pallet of climbing techniques. Begin the cloak with immediate difficulty that continues until you reach the highly visible huecos towards the middle of the climb. Slopping edges and important body positioning characterize this lower section that is the route's crux. Manage a rest in the middle of the climb before firing into the dagger. This exposed arete is thuggish and tends to be extremely tiring at such a high altitude, especially after climbing the bottom.

Cloak and Dagger is perhaps one of the better 5.13s in the entire Front Range. Get after it!!

Location

The line follows the bolts out of the shield and through the upper arete on the right side of the overhanging alcove.

Protection

11 bolts and chains. Mandatory stick-clip.

Photos

This is the sickest route in the Front Range! Cannot believe how perfect this line is. I wonder if hold breakage has altered the grade at all? It's one hell of a hard 13b! Nov 4, 2015
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
Arrggghhh nooooo!! Jul 23, 2012
reboot
.
  5.13c
reboot   .
  5.13c
The loose flake right of the 3rd bolt is completely gone now. This significantly changes the right "variation", if still possible. Regardless of how one gets past the 3rd bolt, the traverse is probably a bit harder now that the broken flake eliminated a good foot hold. Maybe it's 13c again? Jul 22, 2012