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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Foster, 2011
Page Views: 1,035 total, 14/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 3, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

G3 connects Crystal Staircase to the Riding with the Ravens anchor.

Clip the first 5 bolt on Crystal Staircase, and then move up and left to a body-length ceiling. Make several hero moves through the ceiling on huge jugs, and finish on a slab to the chains on Riding with the Ravens (7 more bolts).

One of the huge handholds in the roof is a wedged flake that may tear out some day -- seemed pretty solid when we climbed it. The bolts have been placed in a manner that, should the flake give way, I think you'd survive. Ask your belayer to move a little bit to the right as you pull the roof if you're having a bad luck day.

Location

Start on Crystal Staircase and then head left through a big overhang (crux) to the anchors on Riding with the Ravens.

Protection

12 bolts protect the line.

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11a
Really fun route. The moves through the roof don't look 10+ from below, but it's all there on great features. Regarding the loose flake that Bernard mentioned, I gave it a tap when I arrived under the roof and decided that I didn't want to pull on it. Luckily you can simply undercling out right a bit (super positive undercling) and then make a big but super fun move up to the jugs over the roof. This is a totally reasonable solution that negates the need for the loose flake. Done this way the route might be 11a, though perhaps a tiny bit harder for short folks (YMMV). Dec 14, 2015