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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Bob Siegrist
Page Views: 1,557 total, 18/month
Shared By: Bob Siegrist on Sep 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a clean face at the bottom to a small ledge and move up and left onto a ramp. Follow the bolt line up the ramp, which steepens with diminishing holds as you approach the roof above. A technical and powerful sequence through the overlaps in the roof leads onto the face above. Enjoy the ride as you continue face climbing up and over right to reach the chains.

Location

The start is located behind a tree between Crystal Staircase and Witchway Arete.

Protection

12 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains at the top.

Photos

TR Variation
Once the rope is through the anchors, you can top rope the right-facing dihedral just left of the route (and immediately right of Witchway Arete) to gain the big roof, and then follow the roof line (a few moves of mild 5.10) to the crux moves on Riding with the Ravens. Aug 4, 2011