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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Doug Snively and Bernard Gillett, 1994
Page Views: 994 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 24, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Below The Guillotine, on the right-facing dihedral is a series of cracks. 'Dead End' ascends these cracks and ledges, eventually reaching the newly installed chain anchors (shares chains with 'Crystal Staircase') which might warrant a name change. Previously one would climb above said anchors and then downclimb 20 feet to a chockstone to lower off.

As this climb cleans up, its quality will increase. For enjoyable movement and something completely different than 'Crystal Staircase this is worthy. This climb can be top roped after one leads 'Crystal Staircase', and vice versa.

Location

This is on the left dihedral (right-facing) next to 'The Guillotine'.

Protection

Small rack, up to 1 inch.

Photos

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