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Dead End

5.9, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 39 votes
FA: Doug Snively and Bernard Gillett, 1994
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Trib… > Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate
Warning Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED DetailsDrop down

Description

Below The Guillotine, on the right-facing dihedral is a series of cracks. 'Dead End' ascends these cracks and ledges, eventually reaching the newly installed chain anchors (shares chains with 'Crystal Staircase') which might warrant a name change. Previously one would climb above said anchors and then downclimb 20 feet to a chockstone to lower off.

As this climb cleans up, its quality will increase. For enjoyable movement and something completely different than 'Crystal Staircase this is worthy. This climb can be top roped after one leads 'Crystal Staircase', and vice versa.

Location

This is on the left dihedral (right-facing) next to 'The Guillotine'.

Protection

Small rack, up to 1 inch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Amos belaying Brent on Dead End.
[Hide Photo] Amos belaying Brent on Dead End.
Slava TRing off Crystal Staircase anchors.
[Hide Photo] Slava TRing off Crystal Staircase anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Rack to 1" - interesting, I had my hands jammed in cracks much of the way - sure a lot of 2-3" gear potential, IMO.

Climb must have cleaned up. Similar in difficulty to Crystal Staircase but with only a hard move down low and one more up top. Probably slightly easier but just as good and perhaps more interesting. Jun 30, 2019