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Return of the King
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.6 from 147
votes
Routes in C. Wizard's Gate
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Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arrival (removed July 21, 2022), The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Book of Daggers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Book of Spells S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cloak and Dagger S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Horse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Edgy Wizard, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gizmo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gremlin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Return of the King S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone Potion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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White Raven, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wizard's Key S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett, 2019? |
| Page Views: | 13,379 total · 228/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Lewis on Jun 23, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
Per Indika Young: this is a super fun route with lots of exposure with the luxury of good holds! The first pitch has 11 bolts, so it would be ideal to climb with route with 2 sets of quickdraws (12 total). Every pitch after that requires less quickdraws.
Per Byron Murray: this can be done in 3-5 pitches. It is possible to combine pitches P1 & P2, P3 & P4, or P4 & P5 if you have 20 quickdraws and a 70m rope. Matt Piscopo and his partner agreed that the pitches should probably be rated as follows: P1: 5.6; P2: 5.8-; P3: 5.7; P4: 5.7; P5: 5.5.
To descend, do 4 rappels if you have a 70m rope or 5 rappels with a 60m rope. Or walk off as described by someone offering comments: walk off climber's left down a couple short 4th Class moves to gain the talus between the lower and upper great faces. Hike down unconsolidated talus following the edge of the Lower Great Face back to the base. Crossing through the notch between the LGF and the small tower doesn't go. You have to hike below it.
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