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Routes in Wizard's Gate

Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arresto Momentum T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Book of Spells T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cloak and Dagger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Horse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ravenclaw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Potion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
Page Views: 336 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Sep 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

To the right side of 'Cloak and Dagger', there is a series of clean, parallel cracks that wave their way to the top of the crag. Book of Spells takes an obvious leftmost line, utilizing gear placement opportunities while remaining on the best quality rock. Aside from the first 20 feet (loose, somewhat poor stone - demoting the climb to 2-star status), the whole route is bullet rock. Very cool and unique movement takes you through the first roof encounter, while a wildly overhung wall with surprisingly big holds awaits above.

Location

Glide up the parallel crack system to the right of 'Cloak and Dagger' to the left of the lichen.

Protection

Great pro exists mostly all over the climb, but sometimes requires a bit of fiddling. Rack up to 1 inch with doubles in the small pieces. Be careful at the bottom - a leader fall could result in a team slab plummet. There are anchors installed on Book of Spells.

Photos

Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
Given how many features there are over here, and the seemingly widespread availability of gear, surely some easier (or maybe harder) climbing exists.. have at it! Basically I installed chains at the top, and I tried to choose the cleanest, most interesting looking line to get to them. Felt like easy 12 to me. Enjoy! Sep 7, 2009

More About Book of Spells

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