Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Eric Weinstein, Dave Vernon 1974
Page Views: 2,497 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

94 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


This is a classic crack but extremely short. It offers excellent hand and fist jamming.

Start just up the hill from "Sunshine Chimney North" on the left facing dihedral. Climb the step overhanging hands to fist crack to a set of anchors.


Cams ranging from 2.5 to 4 friend


Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Definitely fun jamming and steeper than most of Squamish. Good gear and shaded nicely.

Surprised this isn't more popular! Mar 11, 2013
Cottonwood Heights
Leroy   Cottonwood Heights
Beta on the extension? Looks bold at the top . . . . May 9, 2013
99% sure it is bolted at the tope and ready with rap rings May 14, 2013
Bryan G
Bryan G   Yosemite
The extension is a bit bold. There's some solid pro in the irregular crack and then you reach out right to an angled rail. The last bit of climbing up the rail takes you above your gear, but the whipper is safe. It's good quality, and adds some extra value to this short route. Jul 11, 2013
Classic! Steep, thuggish climbing running from thin hands to off-fists, but generally with options for every sized person within reach. Eats gear from .75 to 5 C4s. (Heavy on 2s and 3s) Apr 14, 2014
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
The extension makes it 10d and bumps it up to 4 stars. Seems silly to stop at the first chains. Take it to the top! Aug 11, 2014
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
I found it hard for 10b, but I'm not strong in the style Sep 18, 2014
Don't cheat yourself, do the extension. To the first anchor, its 3 star 10a, and to the top anchor 4 star 10d. The top is 100% safe with a black diamond 0.2 and 0.3, they are textbook. You could pobably place 2 of each but the stances up higher are much more strenuous. I unfortunately took a fall from the final move, which was exciting but turned out to be very gentle. Jun 29, 2015
Just did the extension for the first time and was pleasantly surprised. It really does add a lot of value to an already great climb, albeit in a very different style (techy thin crack and arete slapping).

Protection for the extension is very good, just small and strenuous to place. I found a set of c3s from #2-#0 did the trick perfectly. The last moves happen with gear just below your feet, but they felt pretty comfortable. May 2, 2016
another vote for the extension being super fun and the whipper being safe and clean May 22, 2017