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Classic Climbs for Maine


Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes.

WI3
 5
Pamola's Fury Left
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-
 12
Cilley-Barber
Trad, Ice 7 pitches
WI4
 6
Waterfall Gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI5+
 5
Main(e?)line
Ice, Alpine
V1 5
 3
Slab
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 8
Purity
Boulder
V4 6B
 9
The Prow (aka "Shark's Tooth"- r…
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 6
Kara
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Halfway Prince
Boulder
V5 6C R
 4
Mammoth
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 8
Beeched Whale
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 3
Swamp Thing
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 3
Purity (Right Variation)
Boulder
V8 7B
 4
Diamond Bollocks
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 62
In The Groove
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 104
The Great Chimney
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 132
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 14
My Time
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
A.M.C. Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2 Mod. Snow
 9
The Chimney
Trad, Ice, Snow
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
A.M.C. Route Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 178
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 48
Easy Corner
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 47
Overhanging Corner
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 53
Standard Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 44
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Ce…
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Wonderwall - Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 89
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 67
Gunklandia
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
The Armadillo
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Charlotte's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 58
Wounderwall - Right
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
The Philidelphia Story
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 38
Trotsky
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 196
Old Town
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 35
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Flatiron
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Yellow Wall
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Gargoyle
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
London Bridges
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Glory Hole
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 5
Overnite Sensation
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 5
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Spider (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
The Million Muppet March
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
Morning Glory
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 27
Bivy Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Wonder Wall
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 50
Short Shagg
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Chicken of the Sea
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Recollections of Pacifica -(Cent…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Exasperator
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Entrance Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Rock Lobster
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff…
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 47
Green Mt. Breakdown
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 21
Sea Gypsy
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Ghost
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
The Eagle's Gift
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Captain Dinghy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Wheaties
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 66
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 61
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
The Growth of the Soil
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 60
Peak Performance
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
The Wet Lithuanian
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Highlander
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Fear of Flying
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 109
The Great Escape
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 118
Adair by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Obscure Object of Desire
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 51
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-clif…
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Stratocaster
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 23
Head Arete
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
All Seriousness Aside
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Bemis
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Brown Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Eagle Direct
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 6
cracked up
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 95
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Jaws
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Ariel
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Zagg Shagg
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 43
Two Shaved Heads
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Short Bob
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 69
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 70
Ginseng Route
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
Pipe Dreams
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Looney Tunes
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 36
Meltdown
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
What About Bobcat
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 38
Shagg It
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
The FishScale
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
What About Bob?
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
The Ritual
Sport 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pamola's Fury Left j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > All Winter Ice Routes…
 5
WI3 Ice 2 pitches
Cilley-Barber j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > All Winter Ice Routes…
 12
WI4- Trad, Ice 7 pitches
Waterfall Gully j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > All Winter Ice Routes…
 6
WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Main(e?)line i. Moose & Kenn… > Mt Kineo > Kineo Ice Climbs
 5
WI5+ Ice, Alpine
Slab a. Western Moun… > Twitchell Pond
 3
V1 5 Boulder
Purity Acadia NP > -MDI Bouldering > Beech Cliff Bouldering
 8
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
The Prow (aka "Shark's Toot… Acadia NP > Canada Cliff > Canada Cliff Boulder
 9
V4 6B Boulder
Kara Acadia NP > -MDI Bouldering > Beech Cliff Bouldering
 6
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Halfway Prince g. Capital Region > Belgrade Lakes… > Mt Philips
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Mammoth Acadia NP > Canada Cliff > Canada Cliff Boulder
 4
V5 6C R Boulder
Beeched Whale Acadia NP > -MDI Bouldering > Beech Cliff Bouldering
 8
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
Swamp Thing a. Western Moun… > Twitchell Pond
 3
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
Purity (Right Variation) Acadia NP > -MDI Bouldering > Beech Cliff Bouldering
 3
V7-8 7B Boulder
Diamond Bollocks c. Greater Port… > Bradbury Mtn SP… > Lodestone
 4
V8 7B Boulder
In The Groove Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 62
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
The Great Chimney Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 104
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 132
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
My Time Clifton Crags > Big Chick Hill > Main Face
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
A.M.C. Route a. Western Moun… > Tumbledown Mountain
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
The Chimney j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > All Winter Ice Routes…
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow
A.M.C. Route Variation a. Western Moun… > Tumbledown Mountain
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Story of O Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 178
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Easy Corner Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 48
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Overhanging Corner Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 47
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Standard Route Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 53
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Wonderwall - Left Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 53
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
The Flake Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 89
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Gunklandia Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 67
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Armadillo j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > Chimney Pond ("South"…
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Charlotte's Crack Camden Hills > 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Wounderwall - Right Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 58
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
The Philidelphia Story Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Trotsky Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 38
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Old Town Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 196
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Crack Of Senility -(Central… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 35
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Flatiron j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > Chimney Pond ("South"…
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Yellow Wall Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Gargoyle Acadia NP > S Bubble > Upper Slab & Upper Wall
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
London Bridges Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 81
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Glory Hole Camden Hills > 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Overnite Sensation Clifton Crags > Big Chick Hill > Main Face
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Fourth of July (mid-cliff S… Camden Hills > 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Spider (mid-cliff START) Camden Hills > 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Million Muppet March Camden Hills > 09. Guide's Wall
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Morning Glory Acadia NP > Great Head > Morning Glory Alcove
 41
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bivy Route Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff
 27
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Wonder Wall Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Short Shagg Shagg Crag
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Chicken of the Sea Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff ST… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Exasperator Camden Hills > 14. Ocean Lookout/ Up…
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Entrance Crack a. Western Moun… > … > Main Wall > Central Wall
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rock Lobster Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Green Mt. Breakdown Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 47
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sea Gypsy Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Ghost a. Western Moun… > … > Main Wall > Bemis Area
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Eagle's Gift Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Captain Dinghy a. Western Moun… > Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Wheaties Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Chitlin's Corner Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 66
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Guillotine Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 61
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Growth of the Soil a. Western Moun… > Ten Degree Wall > Shady Wall
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Peak Performance Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 60
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Wet Lithuanian Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Highlander Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Emigrant Crack - (mid-clif… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fear of Flying Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Great Escape Shagg Crag
 109
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Adair by the Sea Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 118
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Sweet Surrender -(Central S… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Obscure Object of Desire Camden Hills > 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Fingers in a Seascape (mid… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 51
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Stratocaster Acadia NP > Eagles Crag
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Head Arete Acadia NP > Great Head > Left wall
 23
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
All Seriousness Aside Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bemis a. Western Moun… > … > Main Wall > Bemis Area
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Brown Crack a. Western Moun… > Ten Degree Wall > Military Wall
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Eagle Direct Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
cracked up Camden Hills > 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Connecticut Cracks Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 95
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jaws Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Ariel Camden Hills > 12. The Rampart
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Zagg Shagg Shagg Crag
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy Shagg Crag
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Two Shaved Heads Shagg Crag
 43
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Short Bob Shagg Crag
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shaggin Wagon Shagg Crag
 69
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route Shagg Crag
 70
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Pipe Dreams Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Looney Tunes Shagg Crag
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Meltdown Shagg Crag
 36
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
What About Bobcat Shagg Crag
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shagg It Shagg Crag
 38
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The FishScale Acadia NP > Great Head > Cavern
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
What About Bob? Shagg Crag
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Ritual Shagg Crag
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport 15 pitches