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Routes in All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas

Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2
Cilley-Barber T WI4-
Mini-Pinnacle 2 WI2
Mini-Pinnacle 3 WI2+
Pamola Ice Cliffs WI5
Pamola West Ridge(Pamola III) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3- M2
Pamola's Fury Left WI3+
Waterfall Gully T WI4
Type: Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Glen Gilley, Henry Barber 197?
Page Views: 14,316 total, 117/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details
Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Description

This broad snow and ice gulley is the most distinct line in the Chimney Pond Cirque of the Katahdin Massif. When I did it, there was more ice and less snow than usual. The first two pitches are usually ice climbing at NEI2-3. These top out into a large bowl-like snow gulley that continues for the majority of the climb. Simul over some ice bulges and steep snow for a couple hundred of feet. The crux pitch is somewhere around what would be Pitch 9. This pitch can have wind-swept overhanging mushrooms of ice, but we were able to skirt around them. The last two or so pitches are cruiser snowy and rocky climbing. Top out to the infamous Knife Edge Ridge.

Location

The route is the most obvious line up to the Knife's Edge, topping out to climber's left of Baxter Peak. Approach via the inlet creek to Chimney Pond. Descend via Cathedral trail if visibility is good. Otherwise, continue along the ridge and descend the Saddle Trail.

Bring and use a map and compass.

Protection

Standard ice rack.
Spencer Nowak
Dover, NH
Spencer Nowak   Dover, NH
According to Yankee Rock & Ice (p. 267), Henry Barber and Dave Cilley did the FA in 1973. Aug 11, 2012
Artem Lebedev
Santa Monica, CA
WI4- PG13
Artem Lebedev   Santa Monica, CA
WI4- PG13
Small rock rack is very helpful, especially on the pitches above the crux. Used BD Cam # 1 and #2, set of nuts. May 19, 2008