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Routes in 06. All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas
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Chauvin-Cole T WI3+ |
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Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2 Mod. Snow |
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Cilley-Barber T WI4 |
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Cole-Scranton T WI3+ |
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Diamond, The T WI3 M2-3 Steep Snow R |
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Mini-Pinnacle 2 WI2-3 |
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Mini-Pinnacle 3 WI2+ |
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Pamola Ice Cliffs WI5 |
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Pamola West Ridge(Pamola III) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3- M2 Easy Snow |
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Pamola's Fury Left WI3 |
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Seeley-Marjerison T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4+ M4-5 Steep Snow |
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Tut's Thumb (North Basin) WI4+ |
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Waterfall Gully T WI4 |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Dave Cilley, Henry Barber 1973 |
| Page Views: | 21,901 total · 104/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Bagley on Nov 14, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin
Details
Consult Baxter State Park for details on winter camping & climbing. Minimum group size, minimum length of stay, and requirements for staying at specific places on the trip in may apply.
Description
This broad snow and ice gulley is the most distinct line in the Chimney Pond Cirque of the Katahdin Massif. When I did it, there was more ice and less snow than usual. The first two pitches are usually ice climbing at NEI2-3. These top out into a large bowl-like snow gulley that continues for the majority of the climb. Simul over some ice bulges and steep snow for a couple hundred of feet. The crux pitch is somewhere around what would be Pitch 9. This pitch can have wind-swept overhanging mushrooms of ice, but we were able to skirt around them. The last two or so pitches are cruiser snowy and rocky climbing. Top out to the infamous Knife Edge Ridge.
Location
The route is the most obvious line up to the Knife's Edge, topping out to climber's left of Baxter Peak. Approach via the inlet creek to Chimney Pond. Descend via Cathedral trail if visibility is good. Otherwise, continue along the ridge and descend the Saddle Trail.
Bring and use a map and compass.
Bring and use a map and compass.
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