Avg: 3.9 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Glen Gilley, Henry Barber 197?|
|Page Views:||14,769 total · 117/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Bagley on Nov 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details
Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details
Consult Baxter State Park for details on winter camping & climbing. Minimum group size, minimum length of stay, and requirements for staying at specific places on the trip in may apply.
DescriptionThis broad snow and ice gulley is the most distinct line in the Chimney Pond Cirque of the Katahdin Massif. When I did it, there was more ice and less snow than usual. The first two pitches are usually ice climbing at NEI2-3. These top out into a large bowl-like snow gulley that continues for the majority of the climb. Simul over some ice bulges and steep snow for a couple hundred of feet. The crux pitch is somewhere around what would be Pitch 9. This pitch can have wind-swept overhanging mushrooms of ice, but we were able to skirt around them. The last two or so pitches are cruiser snowy and rocky climbing. Top out to the infamous Knife Edge Ridge.
LocationThe route is the most obvious line up to the Knife's Edge, topping out to climber's left of Baxter Peak. Approach via the inlet creek to Chimney Pond. Descend via Cathedral trail if visibility is good. Otherwise, continue along the ridge and descend the Saddle Trail.
Bring and use a map and compass.