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Routes in All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas

Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2
Cilley-Barber T WI4-
Mini-Pinnacle 2 WI2
Mini-Pinnacle 3 WI2+
Pamola Ice Cliffs WI5
Pamola West Ridge(Pamola III) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3- M2
Pamola's Fury Left WI3+
Waterfall Gully T WI4
Type: Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 561 total, 25/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Jan 27, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details
Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Description

This seems to be the standard warmup climb, and if weather is really bad might be the only thing you can do! If so, really a pretty fun little climb.

Looking from Chimney Pond, look at the left-most flows along Pamola cliffs. This is the second in from the left, with a prominent right-leaning slab at the start.

P1 Up right, over some bulges, belay in a little cave off of screws.
P2 Straight up to the top.

Rap down off of V-threads or manky old gear. Or apparently walk off to the left.

Location

Best-looking flow at the left-hand side of Pamola cliffs. Approach using the Dudley trail, then bushwhack uphill to the start.

Protection

Screws

Photos

Ryan Gibbs
  WI2+
Ryan Gibbs  
  WI2+
70m half/twin ropes were used and got us to the ground from the slung block in 1 rappel. Mar 28, 2016
Kurtz
  WI2-3
Kurtz  
  WI2-3
Rapping off MP2 can be tricky. There is currently a large block slung with rope and rapp rings at the very top of P2. Since this point is much higher than 60 meters, you'll need to choose an intermediate point for the second rappel. Getting back to the P1 belay in the cave is a bit sketchy since P2 traverses pretty far to the left, but that's what we did since there was a nice V-thread in the cave. We bypassed a more temporary looking slung horn about 20m below the top because we weren't sure we could reach the bottom from it. Feb 13, 2016