Katahdin Climbing

A review of BSP  climbing rules (revised for clarity in 2026) clearly state that “ the placing of bolts, gardening of routes and chipping or glueing new holds are not permitted.”and that “all gear must be removed except in emergency situations”.

Technical climbers are subject to both the rules for technical climbing ( which really are pretty much common sense. One rule is you must register at Roaring Brook) AND the general rules,( Two of which are carry a headlamp or flashlight, and carry water. Helmets are highly recommended) . Like I said, common sense.

As of 2026 these rules can be found under the “ Explore” heading on the BSP website. Scroll down past “ Canoe” and “bike” to “ Climb” and click on it. The text contains the imbedded links to the actual rules. 

When Percival Baxter donated this land to the people of Maine he specifically wished it to remain wild. The climbing culture of the area has long embraced the wilderness experience. "Locals" have climbed on these crags for many decades.  Most don't even "report" their routes in the Ranger's Cabin Logbook, so there's an excellent chance that blank looking section of rock has been climbed before without the need for a bolt. Do not place bolts.  Please respect the feeling of wilderness and help keep this wonderfully alpine area open for climbing. 

Thanks !