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Areas in Katahdin

Bouldering Areas In & Around Katahdin 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Klondike Pond 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Little North Basin 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
North Basin 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2 / 2
Northwest Basin 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Elevation: 5,260 ft
GPS: 45.905, -68.924 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 75,109 total, 580/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

The Northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail is Mt. Katahdin at 5260ft.

There are many fifth-class multi-pitch climbs that ascend this peak and the various other peaks around it.

There are even more ice/mixed winter time routes up this mountain.

peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pi…
Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Getting There

To get to the mountain follow the Appalachain Trail!
Katahdin is just north of Millinocket, ME, in Baxter State Park. There are detailed directions and insructions for winter climbing on the state park web site: baxterstateparkauthority.com/ The park is awesome in the winter and offers full bore, hard alpine climbing as well as shorter, more friendly ice climbs. Expect to spend two days coming in and out as you are required to stay at the Roaring Brook Campground on your first and last night in the park.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Katahdin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
Pamola Ice Cliffs
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-
Cilley-Barber
Trad, Ice 7 pitches
WI4
Waterfall Gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3+
Pamola's Fury Left
Ice 2 pitches
WI2
Mini-Pinnacle 2
Ice 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Basin Headwall Route
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2
The Chimney
Trad, Ice
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Pamola IV Ridge
Trad 11 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Armadillo
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
The "Diamond Area"
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatiron
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pamola Ice Cliffs All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney… WI5 Ice 2 pitches
Cilley-Barber All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney… WI4- Trad, Ice 7 pitches
Waterfall Gully All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney… WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Pamola's Fury Left All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney… WI3+ Ice 2 pitches
Mini-Pinnacle 2 All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney… WI2 Ice 2 pitches
North Basin Headwall Route N Basin 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
The Chimney All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney… 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2 Trad, Ice
Pamola IV Ridge Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - S… 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 11 pitches
The Armadillo Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - S… 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The "Diamond Area" Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - S… 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Flatiron Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - S… 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Katahdin »

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I'd like to hear more info on the Flatiron route. I have been in and out of the park for 35+ years in all season, even snowboarding down off the second cathedral way way back one winter, worked trail crew some, etc... and only recently started to technical climb on Katahdin. We did what we think is Flatiron route - trying to interpret some handwritten notes from the "bible" at the Ranger's station...Anyone have any route notes on this one they want to share?

The bottom line, for those interested, is that the park is remote to begin with and then you are remote while climbing. For people who think the rangers are being stiff, they don't know you from adam, and they are doing their jobs to keep you safe. The part can be really nepotistic, find someone who they know to take you in and then you are golden. It isn't that hard, there are a lot of climbers in NE who know the park... Sep 11, 2013
ideally that wont happen anytime soon. check the log at chimney pond. Keep it to yourself. Feb 18, 2013
RhodeIslandJeff
Westerly, RI
RhodeIslandJeff   Westerly, RI
On a clear day with little wind the south basin makes for some excellent yodeling.

I would love to see more information on the North Basin. Feb 17, 2013
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
In the summer the park rangers will hand out a "Technical Rock Climbing At Katahdin" paper which has general information (basic route descriptions with grades that are not all that helpful.) There is also an informal guide book with photographs and drawn lines of the routes along with descriptions from many of the first ascentionist. Be prepared to show your gear and lay out your intentions to the ranger on duty, who may or may not know something about climbing and may or may not be polite and respectful. Apr 28, 2007

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