Type: Trad, Ice, 1501 ft (455 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 45.91351, -68.91171
FA: March 1996
Page Views: 1,533 total · 18/month
Shared By: Peter Cole on May 11, 2019
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca
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Warning Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

On the FA, Eric and I found four good pitches of ice climbing and two that are mostly neve. The ice on the first two pitches was quite thin. We needed some thin pins to set the belay at the top of the first. On the 2nd pitch, we veered ever so slightly right to ascend a very nice groove to the right of the main flow. The Primatives, done a year later ascended the main flow on the 2nd pitch. The routes re-join at the top of the 2nd pitch. Other than that, the climbs are identical. There has been much misprint about this route. I hope this clears it up. Above the 2nd pitch, the route is self evident and enjoys a spectacular setting. We exited right at the top of the upper neve and finished up the narrow ridge to the South Peak.

The full trip report of our perfect week of weather in BSP in March 1996 can be found @

http://amountainlifetime.net/content/gallery/68/katahdin-mar-1996

Location Suggest change

The approach is quite straight forward and is approached as if you are headed to the Cilly-Barber. Veer right as conditions permit.

Protection Suggest change

Handful of knifeblades and ice screws will suffice.

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Photos

The day after. The line we took in green.
The day after. The line we took in green.
 4
Eric leading the short 4th pitch up to the base of the final headwall.
Eric leading the short 4th pitch up to the base…
 5
Day 4 - Sunrise on the South Peak and Armadillo Buttress. The route is clearly visible to the left of the summer route.
Day 4 - Sunrise on the South Peak and Armadillo…
 2
Eric Scranton, Steve Amstudtz and Dave Goodman - Pogy Pond Shelter. We skied the length of the park before spending 3 nights at Chimney Pond
Eric Scranton, Steve Amstudtz and Dave Goodman…
 2
Friends in high places. Ranger Mac Browning taking our gear as far as he could. Seen here at Roaring Brook.
Friends in high places. Ranger Mac Browning tak…
 1
South Basin headwall. Nothing else like it east of the Rockies!
South Basin headwall. Nothing else like it east…
 2
Another shot of the lower angle terrain on the approach
Another shot of the lower angle terrain on the…
 2
A foreshortened view of the route from the end of the approach. Out of view above the last icy section is the upper snowfield as the route kicks back.
A foreshortened view of the route from the end…
 2
Looking up the wonderful climbing to come on our 2nd pitch.
Looking up the wonderful climbing to come on ou…
 2
Diamond, Gallery and Chauvin-Cole route from the approach.
Diamond, Gallery and Chauvin-Cole route from th…
 1
Eric Scranton arriving at the South Peak.
Eric Scranton arriving at the South Peak.
 2
The 3rd and 5th pitches from the top of the 2nd. This is where our line rejoined the main ice flow.
The 3rd and 5th pitches from the top of the 2nd…
 2

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