The Chimney [Edit]
Avg: 3.4 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II|
|FA:||W. Helburn, Chamberain, Holden, Kennedy, M. Helburn, Dow, Whipple (1923)|
|Page Views:||8,432 total · 63/month|
|Shared By:||BrianWinslow on Apr 28, 2007|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details
Access Issue: Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details
Consult Baxter State Park for details on winter camping & climbing. Minimum group size, minimum length of stay, and requirements for staying at specific places on the trip in may apply.
A long, great gully climb. When I climbed it there was very little ice, making it a snow climb with a few easy rock bands. The hardest part for us was actually getting onto the ridge at the top of the climb to head out for the knife edge and the rim of the basin, though by heading left down the Dudley trail this crux may be avoided. DO NOT CLIMB WHEN THERE IS AVALANCHE DANGER!
The south basin, on the left wall. The route can not be seen from Chimney Pond.
Snow gear (pickets), probably some screws (we didn't use them for lack of ice), a light rock rack (nuts and a few cams).