Waterfall Gully

This is a long alpine route requiring most of the day to complete, be sure to get an early start.

Walk to the ranger cabin and cross Chimney pond. Scamble through the snow and rocks to the base of the climb. It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber. It’s the big and impressive frozen waterfall.

The first pitch (WI3) brings you an ice ledge where you can belay. Then traverse the snow patch to reach the crux of the route: an impressive 45m gully of WI4 (or WI4+ if you go left), protected from the wind. Toping out of the second pitch, there is a good belay on a rock. From this point, you can abseil down if you the weather isn’t good, if it’s too late or if you don’t feel like climbing a long and steep snow gully. In any case, if you haven’t cleared the crux by noon, you should retreat.

If reaching the Knife’s Edge is your objective, follow the snow gully which « slowly turns a dog-leg right » (according to An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England). You can simul-climb using snow pickets for protection or simply solo. Beware of avalanches. Keep climbing until you reach the summit ridge. Turn left and traverse the Knife’s Edge until you reach Pamola Peak and go down via Dudley Trail or decent via the Saddle Trail located a the far right end of the ridge past Baxter Peak.

Note- Although I’ve only done it in the summer, the descent from into the Chimney notch is sort of 3rd class even in summer with the painted blazes marking the easiest route easily seen and not snow-ice covered. I suspect in winter, many would like to be roped and even rappelling might be the “safer part of valor”. R. Hall, Admin, Maine 

It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber.

Standard ice rack. Light alpine rock rack may also be useful if continuing above pitch 2.