All Locations > Maine > j. The Maine High… > Katahdin > All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas
Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, 2 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Mark Lawrence & Bob Proudman (march 1973)|
|Page Views:||2,123 total, 61/month|
|Shared By:||angeloks on Feb 6, 2015|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details
Consult Baxter State Park for details on winter camping & climbing. Minimum group size, minimum length of stay, and requirements for staying at specific places on the trip in may apply.
Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details
DescriptionThis is a long alpine route requiring most of the day to complete, be sure to get an early start.
Walk to the range cabin and cross Chimney pond. Scamble through the snow and rocks to the base of the climb. It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber. Its the big and impressive frozen waterfall.
The first pitch (WI3) brings you an ice ledge where you can belay. Then traverse the snow patch to reach the crux of the route: an impressive 45m gully of WI4 (or WI4+ if you go left), protected from the wind. Toping out of the second pitch, there is a good belay on a rock. From this point, you can abseil down if you the weather isnt good, if its too late or if you dont feel like climbing a long and steep snow gully. In any case, if you havent cleared the crux by noon, you should retreat.
If reaching the Knifes Edge is your objective, follow the snow gully which « slowly turns a dog-leg right » (according to An Ice Climbers Guide to Northern New England). You can simul-climb using snow pickets for protection or simply solo. Beware of avalanches. Keep climbing until you reach the summit ridge. Turn left and traverse the Knifes Edge until you reach Pamola Peak and go down via Dudley Trail or decent via the Saddle Trail located a the far right end of the ridge past Baxter Peak.