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Routes in All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas

Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2
Cilley-Barber T WI4-
Mini-Pinnacle 2 WI2
Mini-Pinnacle 3 WI2+
Pamola Ice Cliffs WI5
Pamola West Ridge(Pamola III) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3- M2
Pamola's Fury Left WI3+
Waterfall Gully T WI4
Type: Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, 2 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mark Lawrence & Bob Proudman (march 1973)
Page Views: 2,123 total, 61/month
Shared By: angeloks on Feb 6, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details
Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Description

This is a long alpine route requiring most of the day to complete, be sure to get an early start.
Walk to the range cabin and cross Chimney pond. Scamble through the snow and rocks to the base of the climb. It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber. It’s the big and impressive frozen waterfall.
The first pitch (WI3) brings you an ice ledge where you can belay. Then traverse the snow patch to reach the crux of the route: an impressive 45m gully of WI4 (or WI4+ if you go left), protected from the wind. Toping out of the second pitch, there is a good belay on a rock. From this point, you can abseil down if you the weather isn’t good, if it’s too late or if you don’t feel like climbing a long and steep snow gully. In any case, if you haven’t cleared the crux by noon, you should retreat.
If reaching the Knife’s Edge is your objective, follow the snow gully which « slowly turns a dog-leg right » (according to An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England). You can simul-climb using snow pickets for protection or simply solo. Beware of avalanches. Keep climbing until you reach the summit ridge. Turn left and traverse the Knife’s Edge until you reach Pamola Peak and go down via Dudley Trail or decent via the Saddle Trail located a the far right end of the ridge past Baxter Peak.

Location

It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber.

Protection

Standard ice rack.
Dan Flynn
MA
 
Dan Flynn   MA  
 
On a short daylight day (early Jan), we did it like this:
Start hiking 4:45, bushwhacked through deep snow and got to base at 7.
Topped out the ice 10am. Great conditions above and we were at the ridge at noon. Crossing the knife edge was fun and easy until the last bit, Chimney Peak, which we ended up rapping down into the snow saddle to Pamola Peak. Started hiking down Dudley trail around 3, back at the cabin 5:30.

Awesome route, all sections really fun (except the downscramble on Dudley trail!) Jan 22, 2016