Type: Trad, Ice, 1500 ft, 2 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mark Lawrence & Bob Proudman (march 1973)
Page Views: 3,484 total · 55/month
Shared By: angeloks on Feb 6, 2015 with improvements by Bogdan P
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details
Access Issue: Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details

Description

This is a long alpine route requiring most of the day to complete, be sure to get an early start.
Walk to the range cabin and cross Chimney pond. Scamble through the snow and rocks to the base of the climb. It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber. It’s the big and impressive frozen waterfall.
The first pitch (WI3) brings you an ice ledge where you can belay. Then traverse the snow patch to reach the crux of the route: an impressive 45m gully of WI4 (or WI4+ if you go left), protected from the wind. Toping out of the second pitch, there is a good belay on a rock. From this point, you can abseil down if you the weather isn’t good, if it’s too late or if you don’t feel like climbing a long and steep snow gully. In any case, if you haven’t cleared the crux by noon, you should retreat.
If reaching the Knife’s Edge is your objective, follow the snow gully which « slowly turns a dog-leg right » (according to An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England). You can simul-climb using snow pickets for protection or simply solo. Beware of avalanches. Keep climbing until you reach the summit ridge. Turn left and traverse the Knife’s Edge until you reach Pamola Peak and go down via Dudley Trail or decent via the Saddle Trail located a the far right end of the ridge past Baxter Peak.

Location

It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber.

Protection

Standard ice rack. Light alpine rock rack may also be useful if continuing above pitch 2.

Photos