Type: Ice, 500 ft, 2 pitches
FA: B Proudman, M Cohen, D George, Jan 1974
Page Views: 973 total · 28/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Jan 22, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details
Access Issue: Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin Details

Description

This is the best moderate, easy access gully climb near Chimney Pond. Starts with ~ 200 m of easy snow scrambling or wallowing to the base of a nice ice flow. This is the left-hand of two prominent gullies running up to Pamola Peak.

P1 - 40-50m, fun WI3. Belay as up on the left side.
P2 - 40m, WI3/+. Belay up in cave on left side

Scramble to the top of Pamola peak, descend via Dudley trail to the left. Alternative, rap down the route; we did this to avoid the long scrambly descent.

Location

Recognizable by the large rock avalanche cone at the base.

Either 1. Follow the blue-blazed Dudley trail to the base of the cliffs and then walk until you get to the start or

2. Cross the pond, following the left-most stream bed for a while until you see the avalanche cone that marks the start of the route, then head left.

Protection

Screws.

Photos

Mr. G  
Dan when did you climb this route? Jan 28, 2016
Dan Flynn
MA
  WI3+
Dan Flynn   MA  
  WI3+
I was there a few weeks ago. We had just had a big dump of snow, so our approach was hilariously slow. Armpit-deep wallowing to the start of the ice. If you have any more info to add for different conditions, that would be great. Jan 28, 2016
Ryan Gibbs
  WI3
Ryan Gibbs  
  WI3
Found this to have more ice than normal in late March. Closer to 2.75 pitches of ice ranging from 2-3. More thin ice up high, where simuling was the best approach. Lots of cool options heading right and left up high for mixed topouts instead of just a rock scramble. Mar 28, 2016