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Areas in Maine

Acadia National Park 111 / 13 / 83 / 53 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 235
Camden Hills 94 / 44 / 13 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 152
Clifton Crags 50 / 60 / 10 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 114
Shagg Crag 4 / 45 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 51
a. Western Mountains 51 / 13 / 9 / 43 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 108
b. Southern Coast 0 / 0 / 5 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
c. Greater Portland 0 / 0 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
d. Midcoast 1 / 1 / 2 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
e. Penobscot Bay to Schoodic Point 2 / 0 / 4 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 10
f. Downeast 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
g. Capital Region 1 / 0 / 4 / 30 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
h. Greater Bangor 6 / 0 / 2 / 28 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 3 / 35
i. Moose & Kennebec River Valleys 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
j. The Maine Highlands (inc. BSP) 22 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 9 / 1 / 1 / 6 / 31
k. Aroostook (The County) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
z. Gyms & Indoor Walls 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 489 ft
GPS: 45.151, -69.17 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 699,348 total · 5,075/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007 with updates from Jonathan Steitzer
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.

Getting There

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.

Map Here
Regions of Maine (working copy)

Regions of Maine

843 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 97
The Great Chimney
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 123
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 164
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
The Armadillo
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 80
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 179
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 56
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 99
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central S…
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 62
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 105
The Great Escape
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 114
Adair by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 89
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 65
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 64
Ginseng Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Chimney Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 97
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 123
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Story of O Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 164
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Armadillo j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > Chimney Pond ("South"…
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Flake Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 80
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Old Town Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 179
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 75
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 56
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chitlin's Corner Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 62
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Great Escape Shagg Crag
 105
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Adair by the Sea Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 114
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Connecticut Cracks Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 89
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Shaggin Wagon Shagg Crag
 65
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route Shagg Crag
 64
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Photos

justo
slc
justo   slc
Maine rocks! Apr 23, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Maine has maybe the best sport climbing in New England after Rumney, maybe even the potential for the best, with all the hidden steep schist crags. The locals are just a little quiet about it. Know what I am saying, eh :) Aug 26, 2013

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