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Areas in Maine

Acadia National Park 104 / 15 / 82 / 51 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 228
Camden Hills 90 / 44 / 11 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 148
Clifford Park 0 / 0 / 5 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Clifton Crags 49 / 58 / 10 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 111
Shagg Crag 4 / 44 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 50
a. Western Mountains 49 / 13 / 8 / 36 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 99
b. Southern Coast 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
c. Greater Portland 0 / 0 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
d. Midcoast 1 / 1 / 2 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
e. Penobscot Bay to Schoodic Point 2 / 0 / 4 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 10
f. Downeast 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
g. Capital Region 1 / 0 / 4 / 30 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
h. Greater Bangor 6 / 0 / 2 / 28 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 3 / 35
i. Moose & Kennebec River Valleys 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
j. The Maine Highlands (inc. BSP) 21 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 8 / 1 / 1 / 6 / 27
k. Aroostook (The County) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
z. Gyms & Indoor Walls 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 489 ft
GPS: 45.151, -69.17 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 624,288 total · 4,619/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007 with updates from Jonathan Steitzer
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description [Edit]

Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.

Getting There [Edit]

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.

Map Here
Regions of Maine (working copy)

Regions of Maine

813 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 87
The Great Chimney
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 115
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 149
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
The Armadillo
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 73
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 159
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 53
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central S…
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 58
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 99
The Great Escape
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 109
A Dare by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 83
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 63
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 59
Ginseng Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Chimney Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 87
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 115
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Story of O Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 149
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Armadillo j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > Chimney Pond ("South"…
 45
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Flake Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 73
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Old Town Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 159
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 69
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 53
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chitlin's Corner Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 58
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Great Escape Shagg Crag
 99
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
A Dare by the Sea Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 109
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Connecticut Cracks Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 83
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Shaggin Wagon Shagg Crag
 63
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route Shagg Crag
 59
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Photos

justo
slc
justo   slc
Maine rocks! Apr 23, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Maine has maybe the best sport climbing in New England after Rumney, maybe even the potential for the best, with all the hidden steep schist crags. The locals are just a little quiet about it. Know what I am saying, eh :) Aug 26, 2013

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