Elevation: 489 ft
GPS: 45.151, -69.17 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 773,334 total · 5,447/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007 with updates from Jonathan Steitzer
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.

Getting There

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.

Map Here
Regions of Maine (working copy)

Regions of Maine

862 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Maine Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Maine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 104
The Great Chimney
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 131
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 177
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
The Armadillo
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 89
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 195
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Recollections of Pacifica -(Cent…
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 66
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 109
The Great Escape
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 118
Adair by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 94
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 69
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 70
Ginseng Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Chimney Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 104
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 131
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Story of O Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 177
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Armadillo j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > Chimney Pond ("South"…
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Flake Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 89
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Old Town Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 195
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 80
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chitlin's Corner Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 66
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Great Escape Shagg Crag
 109
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Adair by the Sea Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
 118
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Connecticut Cracks Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall
 94
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Shaggin Wagon Shagg Crag
 69
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route Shagg Crag
 70
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Maine »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
justo
slc
justo   slc
Maine rocks! Apr 23, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Maine has maybe the best sport climbing in New England after Rumney, maybe even the potential for the best, with all the hidden steep schist crags. The locals are just a little quiet about it. Know what I am saying, eh :) Aug 26, 2013
Camden Climbing
Camden, ME
Camden Climbing   Camden, ME
Great climbing here! Come visit it all!camdenclimbing.biz Aug 25, 2018