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Areas in Maine

Acadia National Park 105 / 15 / 82 / 48 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 226
Camden Hills 90 / 44 / 11 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 148
Clifton Crags 48 / 56 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 107
Shagg Crag 3 / 44 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 49
a. Western Mountains 49 / 13 / 8 / 35 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 98
b. Southern Coast 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
c. Greater Portland 0 / 0 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
d. Midcoast 1 / 1 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
e. Penobscot Bay to Schoodic Point 2 / 0 / 4 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 10
f. Downeast 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
g. Capital Region 1 / 0 / 4 / 27 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
h. Greater Bangor 4 / 0 / 2 / 29 / 2 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 33
i. Moose & Kennebec River Valleys 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
j. The Maine Highlands (inc. BSP) 21 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 8 / 1 / 1 / 6 / 27
k. Aroostook (The County) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 489 ft
GPS: 45.151, -69.17 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 542,394 total, 4,190/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

Getting There

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.



Map Here

Regions of Maine

783 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Great Chimney
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Armadillo
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central S…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Lobster
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Great Escape
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
A Dare by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ginseng Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Chimney Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Story of O Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Armadillo j. The Maine High… > Katahdin > Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - S… 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Flake Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Old Town Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -… Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rock Lobster Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Chitlin's Corner Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Great Escape Shagg Crag 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
A Dare by the Sea Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Connecticut Cracks Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Shaggin Wagon Shagg Crag 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route Shagg Crag 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Maine »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Maine has maybe the best sport climbing in New England after Rumney, maybe even the potential for the best, with all the hidden steep schist crags. The locals are just a little quiet about it. Know what I am saying, eh :) Aug 26, 2013
justo
slc
justo   slc
Maine rocks! Apr 23, 2009

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