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Routes in Otter Cliffs

Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barnacle Baits TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brochure Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chockstone Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Inner Sanctum TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maine Central TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mermaid TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystic, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out to Sea TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Plaque Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seabreeze TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Staircase TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
State of Maine TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swing Time TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wounderwall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 41 ft
GPS: 44.312, -68.189 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 64,216 total, 495/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Most famous and heavily used climbing area in Acadia. Toprope or rappel in to climb here.

Anchors are solid steel bars pounded into the top of the cliff because years of toproping here has killed many trees.

Excellent place for beginners to learn about climbing, the beauty of nature, and placing gear in a wet crack.

Beware high tides as your ropes will get soaked and your gear will be salt encrusted. the rock that the routes start on just gets underwater at the highest tide points.
Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Getting There

East side of Acadia National Park. Follow signs to Otter Cliffs, park and cross road towards ocean to find cliffs below you.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Otter Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In The Groove
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Great Chimney
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Overhanging Corner
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Corner
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wonderwall - Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wounderwall - Right
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Swells
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Wall
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Lobster
TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Peak Performance
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
A Dare by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
The Gallery
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
In The Groove 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
The Great Chimney 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Overhanging Corner 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Easy Corner 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Flake 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Wonderwall - Left 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Wounderwall - Right 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Rolling Swells 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Yellow Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Wonder Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Rock Lobster 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Peak Performance 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Guillotine 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
A Dare by the Sea 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
The Gallery 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Otter Cliffs »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
as of 3 July 2017, there was a large block set in the crack near the top of Seabreeze (~2ft below the cliff top) that was quite loose, moving visibly with just pressure from a foot. The climb can be completed readily without using this, but it is a natural step for starting a lower or rappel on this line, and should be treated with care. Jul 4, 2017
For those climbing unguided during the peak season, be sure to arrive early: before 8:30am. During the day, guide companies claim many of the classic routes, and the cliffs become uncomfortably crowded until later in the day. Aug 7, 2016
Brought my son here for his birthday to climb with Acadia Climbing School. It was a blast and Mark our guide was awesome. If you're new to climbing like us, it was a great experience. Aug 21, 2015
Is lowering in or rappeling required to get to the ledge below? I'm trying to bring a new climber here and would like to avoid it if possible. Jul 14, 2015
Not all of the climbs have anchors at the top. There are bars and I-bolts near 'In The Groove', 'Wonder wall' and immediately surrounding climbs. If you want to climb elsewhere bring a light rack to build your own anchors. Oct 2, 2011
Otter Cliffs is a Top-Managed climbing site. If you don't know how to safely belay off the anchor, or how to rig some of the anchors, PLEASE seek qualified instruction. There have been a number of accidents and near misses as a result of inappropriate belay/anchor techniques. Aug 17, 2009
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Around 1969/70 working for HIOBS with Mike Peloquin and Steve Devlin ( my OB assistants) on request from Maine Outward Bound School we opened up Otter cliffs with about 14 new climbs from around 5.5 to 5.10.... some for our own personal fun, the more moderate ones for the use of students. The only sign of any activity ( as most climbs had some loose rock) was a piton in the easy chimney behind the climb that is now called Rock Lobster.Still have dated slides of some of these ascents one being the obvious Rock Lobster. From the time I left HIOBS in 1972 never saw another climbers use these cliffs.
Jan 25, 2009
On the night of 7/15 under heavy seas the following routes fell into the ocean.

Black Crack, 5.8
Rip Tide, 5.11
Razor Flake, 5.8

The park service and some local climbers are cleaning up face. It should be ready by next spring. The rest of Otter Cliffs is still in good condition. Jul 20, 2008

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