Elevation: 41 ft
GPS: 44.312, -68.189 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 92,322 total · 641/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007 with updates from Ron Birk
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Most famous and heavily used climbing area in Acadia. Toprope or rappel in to climb here.

Anchors are solid steel bars pounded into the top of the cliff because years of toproping here has killed many trees.

Excellent place for beginners to learn about climbing, the beauty of nature, and placing gear in a wet crack.

Beware high tides as your ropes will get soaked and your gear will be salt encrusted. the rock that the routes start on just gets underwater at the highest tide points.

Getting There

East side of Acadia National Park. Follow signs to Otter Cliffs, park and cross road towards ocean to find cliffs below you.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Otter Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 62
In The Groove
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 104
The Great Chimney
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 47
Overhanging Corner
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 48
Easy Corner
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 89
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Wonderwall - Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 58
Wounderwall - Right
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Yellow Wall
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Wonder Wall
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 64
Rock Lobster
TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Drunken Sailor
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 60
Peak Performance
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 61
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 119
Adair by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 18
The Gallery
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
In The Groove
 62
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
The Great Chimney
 104
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Overhanging Corner
 47
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Easy Corner
 48
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Flake
 89
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Wonderwall - Left
 53
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Wounderwall - Right
 58
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Yellow Wall
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Wonder Wall
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Rock Lobster
 64
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Drunken Sailor
 14
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Peak Performance
 60
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Guillotine
 61
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Adair by the Sea
 119
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
The Gallery
 18
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Otter Cliffs »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
On the night of 7/15 under heavy seas the following routes fell into the ocean.

Black Crack, 5.8
Rip Tide, 5.11
Razor Flake, 5.8

The park service and some local climbers are cleaning up face. It should be ready by next spring. The rest of Otter Cliffs is still in good condition. Jul 20, 2008
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Around 1969/70 working for HIOBS with Mike Peloquin and Steve Devlin ( my OB assistants) on request from Maine Outward Bound School we opened up Otter cliffs with about 14 new climbs from around 5.5 to 5.10.... some for our own personal fun, the more moderate ones for the use of students. The only sign of any activity ( as most climbs had some loose rock) was a piton in the easy chimney behind the climb that is now called Rock Lobster.Still have dated slides of some of these ascents one being the obvious Rock Lobster. From the time I left HIOBS in 1972 never saw another climbers use these cliffs.
Jan 25, 2009
Otter Cliffs is a Top-Managed climbing site. If you don't know how to safely belay off the anchor, or how to rig some of the anchors, PLEASE seek qualified instruction. There have been a number of accidents and near misses as a result of inappropriate belay/anchor techniques. Aug 17, 2009
Not all of the climbs have anchors at the top. There are bars and I-bolts near 'In The Groove', 'Wonder wall' and immediately surrounding climbs. If you want to climb elsewhere bring a light rack to build your own anchors. Oct 2, 2011
Is lowering in or rappeling required to get to the ledge below? I'm trying to bring a new climber here and would like to avoid it if possible. Jul 14, 2015
Brought my son here for his birthday to climb with Acadia Climbing School. It was a blast and Mark our guide was awesome. If you're new to climbing like us, it was a great experience. Aug 21, 2015
For those climbing unguided during the peak season, be sure to arrive early: before 8:30am. During the day, guide companies claim many of the classic routes, and the cliffs become uncomfortably crowded until later in the day. Aug 7, 2016
as of 3 July 2017, there was a large block set in the crack near the top of Seabreeze (~2ft below the cliff top) that was quite loose, moving visibly with just pressure from a foot. The climb can be completed readily without using this, but it is a natural step for starting a lower or rappel on this line, and should be treated with care. Jul 4, 2017
Camden Climbing
Camden, ME
Camden Climbing   Camden, ME
Folks have been seriously injured here because of inadequate top-managed systems. Please be careful. if you don't know how to manage from the top, please seek professional advice. Aug 25, 2018