Elevation: 41 ft
GPS: 44.312, -68.189 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 143,232 total · 876/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 with 5 Suggestions
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Most famous and heavily used climbing area in Acadia. Toprope or rappel in to climb here.

Anchors are solid steel bars pounded into the top of the cliff because years of toproping here has killed many trees.

Excellent place for beginners to learn about climbing, the beauty of nature, and placing gear in a wet crack.

Beware high tides as your ropes will get soaked and your gear will be salt encrusted. the rock that the routes start on just gets underwater at the highest tide points. Tides change rapidly here, keep an eye on your time and check out the tide charts before you come. 

Getting There

East side of Acadia National Park. Follow signs to Otter Cliffs, park and cross road towards ocean to find cliffs below you. Parking is extremely limited, consider parking outside the park and biking in or taking the shuttle service. 

73 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Otter Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 80
In The Groove
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 137
The Great Chimney
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 62
Overhanging Corner
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 65
Easy Corner
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 112
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 61
Wonderwall - Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 67
Wounderwall - Right
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
Yellow Wall
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Wonder Wall
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 82
Rock Lobster
TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 72
Peak Performance
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 84
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Outer Face
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 153
Adair by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
The Gallery
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
In The Groove
 80
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
The Great Chimney
 137
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Overhanging Corner
 62
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Easy Corner
 65
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Flake
 112
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Wonderwall - Left
 61
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Wounderwall - Right
 67
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Yellow Wall
 77
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Wonder Wall
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Rock Lobster
 82
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Peak Performance
 72
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Guillotine
 84
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Outer Face
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Adair by the Sea
 153
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
The Gallery
 24
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Otter Cliffs »

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