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Routes in Otter Cliffs
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Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barnacle Bait TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brochure Crack TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Capsized TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+ |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crab Meat TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Corner (aka ? "Wonder Corner" ) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Face of the Sailor T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gallery Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gallery, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Chimney (aka Chockstone Chimney), The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Chimney, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Inner Sanctum TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Maine Central TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mermaid TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mystic, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ocean Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Otter Cliff Ice TR WI3+ |
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Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Out to Sea TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Outer Face T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Plaque Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rock Lobster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rogue Wave TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seabreeze T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+ |
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Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Staircase T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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State of Maine TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stingray TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Swing Time TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Terrace Exit T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wonder Wall T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Wonder Wall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 44.31194, -68.18919 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 11,033 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | Dan 60D5H411 on Aug 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.
Location
When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)
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