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Routes in Otter Cliffs

Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barnacle Baits TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brochure Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chockstone Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Inner Sanctum TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maine Central TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mermaid TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystic, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out to Sea TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Plaque Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seabreeze TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Staircase TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
State of Maine TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swing Time TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wounderwall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,131 total, 58/month
Shared By: Dan G0D5H411 on Aug 23, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.

Location

When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)

Protection

Standard light rack (with an emphasis on smaller gear) or TR setup.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
There was a huge puddle at the base of this route when we did it. Scout it out - you may want to hang your rope so you don't go all the way to the base when you rap in to avoid getting your shoes soaked.

It's an amazing climb, second only to A Dare by the Sea Oct 2, 2013
Michael Z.
  5.10a/b
Michael Z.  
  5.10a/b
This was one of the better routes we did on our trip to Otter right up there with A Dare By the Sea! Aug 16, 2011