Guillotine [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3.4 from 49 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||5,564 total · 58/month|
|Shared By:||Dan G0D5H411 on Aug 23, 2010|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Description [Suggest Change]
Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.
Location [Suggest Change]
When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)
Protection [Suggest Change]
Standard light rack (with an emphasis on smaller gear) or TR setup.