Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,047 total · 60/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on Aug 23, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


61 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.

Location

When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)

Protection

Standard light rack (with an emphasis on smaller gear) or TR setup.

Photos

Michael Z.
  5.10a/b
Michael Z.  
  5.10a/b
This was one of the better routes we did on our trip to Otter right up there with A Dare By the Sea! Aug 16, 2011
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
There was a huge puddle at the base of this route when we did it. Scout it out - you may want to hang your rope so you don't go all the way to the base when you rap in to avoid getting your shoes soaked.

It's an amazing climb, second only to A Dare by the Sea Oct 2, 2013