Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Otter Cliffs

Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barnacle Baits TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brochure Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chockstone Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Inner Sanctum TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maine Central TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mermaid TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystic, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out to Sea TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Plaque Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seabreeze TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Staircase TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
State of Maine TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swing Time TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wounderwall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,938 total, 59/month
Shared By: nickv on Feb 26, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


60 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Climb up good edges and horizontals up the face right of a chimney to a small roof. Pull the roof and lie-back up a thin left leaning corner.

Location

The South face of The Sea Stack.

Protection

Gear anchor. Maybe some webbing or some static line.
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I'd probably run it like JayMorse describes next time. I naively protected the top edge without realizing the one 4ft down. Belaying on the ledge makes it so you can see the climber better... albeit you'll both be below you make the final move back onto the stack. Aug 29, 2016
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
There are plenty of places to place gear, but be prepared to extend a bit. Webbing or static line will be very helpful. If you walk to the climber's left past the seastack you can get a good view of the route. The prime anchor spot ends up making your lead line go over a ledge that you would not see from above. Make sure you plan accordingly and protect your rope! We found it best to hang the anchor over the top of the seastack lip, and have the belayer stand on the ledge, with a rope bag protecting the rope rubbing against the lip of the ledge.

Very fun climbing! Oct 2, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
Landonf, any word on what the lead is like? What kind of gear, and falls? May 8, 2013
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
FA Paul Ross ,also free soloed about 1970 and FA. Jun 6, 2011
Landonf  
Leave your drill at home and man up. I led it 30 years ago. May 23, 2011
Chris Norfolk
Fredericton, New Brunswick
 
Chris Norfolk   Fredericton, New Brunswick
 
Really fun line. Would make a great little sport climb were bolting accepted. As is, It's still worth a top rope.

Unaware of any anchor potential at the cliff's edge, we constructed a bomb-proof anchor using an entire 60m line as a rope-o-lette!
Feb 11, 2010