Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,784 total · 59/month
Shared By: nickv on Feb 26, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Climb up good edges and horizontals up the face right of a chimney to a small roof. Pull the roof and lie-back up a thin left leaning corner.

Location

The South face of The Sea Stack.

Protection

Gear anchor. Maybe some webbing or some static line.
Chris Norfolk
Fredericton, New Brunswick
 
Chris Norfolk   Fredericton, New Brunswick
 
Really fun line. Would make a great little sport climb were bolting accepted. As is, It's still worth a top rope.

Unaware of any anchor potential at the cliff's edge, we constructed a bomb-proof anchor using an entire 60m line as a rope-o-lette!
Feb 11, 2010
Landonf  
Leave your drill at home and man up. I led it 30 years ago. May 23, 2011
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
FA Paul Ross ,also free soloed about 1970 and FA. Jun 6, 2011
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
Landonf, any word on what the lead is like? What kind of gear, and falls? May 8, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
There are plenty of places to place gear, but be prepared to extend a bit. Webbing or static line will be very helpful. If you walk to the climber's left past the seastack you can get a good view of the route. The prime anchor spot ends up making your lead line go over a ledge that you would not see from above. Make sure you plan accordingly and protect your rope! We found it best to hang the anchor over the top of the seastack lip, and have the belayer stand on the ledge, with a rope bag protecting the rope rubbing against the lip of the ledge.

Very fun climbing! Oct 2, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I'd probably run it like JayMorse describes next time. I naively protected the top edge without realizing the one 4ft down. Belaying on the ledge makes it so you can see the climber better... albeit you'll both be below you make the final move back onto the stack. Aug 29, 2016