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Routes in Otter Cliffs

Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barnacle Baits TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brochure Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chockstone Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Inner Sanctum TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maine Central TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mermaid TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystic, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out to Sea TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Plaque Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seabreeze TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Staircase TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
State of Maine TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swing Time TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wounderwall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Ed Webster John Harlin lll
Page Views: 580 total, 40/month
Shared By: Zak Munro on Sep 13, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

A good adventure bound to get some funny looks! This is a left to right girdle traverse that can be done anywhere from 6-10 pitches. The climb starts at the Escape Hatch and follows generally easy blocky terrain within half to two-thirds height of the cliff crawling around the sea stack (super cool) and ending on a Dare By the Sea (5.10d). We found the most exciting part of the climb was from Razor Back to Drunken Sailor with options of traversing high through sharp questionable blocks, or low with minimal gear and ground fall potential.

Location

Start at the Escape Hatch far climbers left of the cliff.

Protection

Single rack to 3" doubles between 0.75"-2.5".

Photos

Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Brian's comment sums it up nicely. Apr 8, 2017
Brian O'Leary
Scituate, Ma
 
Brian O'Leary   Scituate, Ma
 
So you've been at Otter a lot and climbed a lot of the classic lines, and you want something different? Or you've never been to Otter before and you want to climb on all of the routes? This is the Route for you!

I'll lay out the day for you. But before we get to the day of the climb we'll start at the day before. You're going to go to the South Wall and CRUSH, I mean send it all! Then you go to the Lompoc hit on some locals. Get more drunk than you planned on. You'll wake up in the morning and realize you won't be sending anything hard at great head, you don't want to take any big falls on anything at the s.wall (because you could throw up from being hungover). So you settle on Otter because its low commitment. You can approach in flip flops, all sorts of tourists will come watch and take pictures of you (this is where you can make yourself sound like a hero, which we all know we're not, but it's fun to pretend for the "Babes"). So you Rack up.

Bring a pretty standard rack nothing to crazy, small nuts and some doubles of cams will be good. Also, bring a knife (helps to fight off rogue seagulls and when someone throws a rope or you, you cut it then and there and then keep climbing. Don't bother communicating that they hit you or that you cut it. They're the one that didn't communicate a rope was coming at you). Lastly, bring a sharpie so that you can sign things for the "Babes" that you will with out a doubt have to fight off because there will be so many of them.

One short rope is good, you'll want to do a lot of short pitches for rope drag. The better Option would be to take a 70m rope and you both coil off some in a mountaineers coil. Makes you look more bad ass for when the "Babes" want to take pictures of you or even better with you.

Now your racked up: Hammer down the best thing about this is nobody ever gets to top rope, everyone gets to climb on the sharp end! Hell sometimes it may be scarier seconding things than leading it.

The Mental crux comes leaving the ledge of Razor back, climb under an overlap, place gear in questionable rock that would probably hold a fall, keep climbing and don't fall. Reach drunken sailor ( I vaguely remember getting a great piece here) keep sending it to the ledge and belay here!
Disclamer: Rumor has it that there is also a low traverse but I thought high looked better.

So you're looking at the seastack. Damn it looks sexy. Step on over to it army crawl around that sucker (helps if you look like GI Joe) Get to the far side of the stack. You're half way through. Don't quit now. (Side note: if you hangout long enough there is a good chance a "Babe" will come down the chimney eventually, this is a great chance to look like a hero)

Keep on climbing the whole time don't forget to check out every climb you traverse past because it is easy to get tunnel vision on sending a "futuristic project" like this. Get to the base of "A dare by the sea" Breath and HAMMER DOWN, this pitch is so rad it makes the whole thing worth it! Top out, and start pushing the "Babes" away because they'll all be running at you after what you just did.

Now keep the rope coiled over you and head back to Lompoc and make sure EVERY one knows what you did, If nobody buys you a drink, then you must not have told everyone what you did.

Do it for the Babes.

-Brian Apr 7, 2017