Type: Trad
FA: Ed Webster John Harlin lll
Page Views: 1,022 total · 36/month
Shared By: Zak Munro on Sep 13, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

A good adventure bound to get some funny looks! This is a left to right girdle traverse that can be done anywhere from 6-10 pitches. The climb starts at the Escape Hatch and follows generally easy blocky terrain within half to two-thirds height of the cliff crawling around the sea stack (super cool) and ending on a Dare By the Sea (5.10d). We found the most exciting part of the climb was from Razor Back to Drunken Sailor with options of traversing high through sharp questionable blocks, or low with minimal gear and ground fall potential.

Location

Start at the Escape Hatch far climbers left of the cliff.

Protection

Single rack to 3" doubles between 0.75"-2.5".

Photos

Brian O'Leary
Scituate, Ma
 
Brian O'Leary   Scituate, Ma
 
So you've been at Otter a lot and climbed a lot of the classic lines, and you want something different? Or you've never been to Otter before and you want to climb on all of the routes? This is the Route for you!

I'll lay out the day for you. But before we get to the day of the climb we'll start at the day before. You're going to go to the South Wall and CRUSH, I mean send it all! Then you go to the Lompoc hit on some locals. Get more drunk than you planned on. You'll wake up in the morning and realize you won't be sending anything hard at great head, you don't want to take any big falls on anything at the s.wall (because you could throw up from being hungover). So you settle on Otter because its low commitment. You can approach in flip flops, all sorts of tourists will come watch and take pictures of you (this is where you can make yourself sound like a hero, which we all know we're not, but it's fun to pretend for the "Babes"). So you Rack up.

Bring a pretty standard rack nothing to crazy, small nuts and some doubles of cams will be good. Also, bring a knife (helps to fight off rogue seagulls and when someone throws a rope or you, you cut it then and there and then keep climbing. Don't bother communicating that they hit you or that you cut it. They're the one that didn't communicate a rope was coming at you). Lastly, bring a sharpie so that you can sign things for the "Babes" that you will with out a doubt have to fight off because there will be so many of them.

One short rope is good, you'll want to do a lot of short pitches for rope drag. The better Option would be to take a 70m rope and you both coil off some in a mountaineers coil. Makes you look more bad ass for when the "Babes" want to take pictures of you or even better with you.

Now your racked up: Hammer down the best thing about this is nobody ever gets to top rope, everyone gets to climb on the sharp end! Hell sometimes it may be scarier seconding things than leading it.

The Mental crux comes leaving the ledge of Razor back, climb under an overlap, place gear in questionable rock that would probably hold a fall, keep climbing and don't fall. Reach drunken sailor ( I vaguely remember getting a great piece here) keep sending it to the ledge and belay here!
Disclamer: Rumor has it that there is also a low traverse but I thought high looked better.

So you're looking at the seastack. Damn it looks sexy. Step on over to it army crawl around that sucker (helps if you look like GI Joe) Get to the far side of the stack. You're half way through. Don't quit now. (Side note: if you hangout long enough there is a good chance a "Babe" will come down the chimney eventually, this is a great chance to look like a hero)

Keep on climbing the whole time don't forget to check out every climb you traverse past because it is easy to get tunnel vision on sending a "futuristic project" like this. Get to the base of "A dare by the sea" Breath and HAMMER DOWN, this pitch is so rad it makes the whole thing worth it! Top out, and start pushing the "Babes" away because they'll all be running at you after what you just did.

Now keep the rope coiled over you and head back to Lompoc and make sure EVERY one knows what you did, If nobody buys you a drink, then you must not have told everyone what you did.

Do it for the Babes.

-Brian Apr 7, 2017
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.10d
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.10d
Brian's comment sums it up nicely. Apr 8, 2017