Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Lynn Hill
Page Views: 2,591 total · 19/month
Shared By: nickv on Feb 26, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Start 7 ft right of Adair by the Sea. Climb up to the small roof and step left into a short left facing corner to an overlap. Traverse right on a horizontal then trend left on jugs to top out.

Protection

Standard New England rack with a #3 camalot for the crux.
2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Fun climbing! You can do this on the same staple anchor as A Dare By the Sea and it's well worth doing both! Oct 2, 2013
JIncillo
  5.9
JIncillo  
  5.9
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.10b
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.10b
This felt like a pretty serious lead. I got this fully on-sight, but had to make some committing moves in the process. As the gear beta on here suggests a #3 cam is bomber right before the crux. The next piece you can place is a good distance above that and hard to do on lead. I opted to just run it out to a restful stance and put in gear at that point, but this definitely made things PG-13.

This felt like a harder lead than its neighbor, A Dare By the Sea which I did with relative ease right before Peak Performance.

The climbing on this route is good and definitely worth doing for the grade. I just thought I'd share my thoughts for those looking to hop on lead this. I'm sure it was nothing for Lynn Hill on the FA though! Jul 9, 2015
I TR'd this, but wish I wore a helmet so I didn't bump my head on the spiky bits above. Otherwise, I really enjoyed this route. Aug 11, 2015
Xi Yin
Cambridge, MA/traveling
 
Xi Yin   Cambridge, MA/traveling
 
Led this route after three laps of TR practice. double rope, placed opposing nuts on the thin crack at the start of the traverse, cam on horizontal fist crack, then a few thin moves to gain a secure position and plug in red #1 cam before topping out.

Also tried direct variation without the traverse (nor using the horizon crack): big reach with right hand to the crimper that is used by the left hand in the regular route, paste right foot just above the roof, then a desperate sequence with left heel hook, left hand to thin crimp hold then bump up to another. Feels very hard. Oct 15, 2018