All Locations > Maine > Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs

Face of the Sailor

Name: Face of the Sailor
Rating: 3.0

5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Otter Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Barnacle Baits TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Brochure Crack TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Capsized TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
	Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crab Meat TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Easy Corner (aka ? "Wonder Corner" ) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ebb and Flow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Face of the Sailor T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gallery, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Great Chimney (aka Chockstone Chimney), The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Inner Sanctum TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Maine Central TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Mermaid TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mystic, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Nerve Damage TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Ocean Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Otter Cliff Ice TR WI3+
	Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Out to Sea TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Outer Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Plaque Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rogue Wave TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Seabreeze T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
	Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Staircase TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	State of Maine TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stingray TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Swing Time TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Terrace Exit T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wonder Wall TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Wonder Wall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	??? I climbed Aug 1997
Page Views:	860 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Daniel DeVries on Oct 24, 2019
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…

Description

I believe this route used to be a named 5.11d, but cannot find it anywhere. It has a beautifully overhanging, chunky, dynamic start and a wicked crimpy face to top, all separated by a flexy roof move.

"I climbed this with Steve-the chimney sweep in '97 and returned 10/2019 with my son & friend. It did not look like it had been climbed since '97 and I did not see it listed on Mtn Project. If anyone else has climbed this route and/or would like to edit my post, please feel free"

Location

This route is in the alcove behind the sea-stack. It starts on the blocky section on the wall between "Submariner" and "Black Crack" I believe. Go up the chunk, clean the left side of the roof and crimp up the almost-blank face. Look for a right-hand side-pull and an incredible reach.