All Locations > Maine > -Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs

Face of the Sailor

Name: Face of the Sailor
Rating: 3.0

5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Otter Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Adair by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Barnacle Baits TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Brochure Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Chockstone Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
	Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Easy Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Face of the Sailor T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gallery, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Inner Sanctum TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Maine Central TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Mermaid TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mystic, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Otter Cliff Ice TR WI3+
	Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Out to Sea TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Outer Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Plaque Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Seabreeze TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
	Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Staircase TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Starfish TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	State of Maine TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Swing Time TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wonder Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wonder Wall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	??? I climbed Aug 1997
Page Views:	487 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Daniel DeVries on Oct 24, 2019
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…

Description

I believe this route used to be a named 5.11d, but cannot find it anywhere. It has a beautifully overhanging, chunky, dynamic start and a wicked crimpy face to top, all separated by a flexy roof move.

"I climbed this with Steve-the chimney sweep in '97 and returned 10/2019 with my son & friend. It did not look like it had been climbed since '97 and I did not see it listed on Mtn Project. If anyone else has climbed this route and/or would like to edit my post, please feel free"

Location

This route is in the alcove behind the sea-stack. It starts on the blocky section on the wall between "Submariner" and "Black Crack" I believe. Go up the chunk, clean the left side of the roof and crimp up the almost-blank face. Look for a right-hand side-pull and an incredible reach.