Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Acadia National Park

Beech Cliff Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Beehive, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cadillac Mtn. 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Canada Cliff 3 / 7 / 6 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Charlotte's Corner 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Eagles Crag 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Gorham Mountain Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Great Head 14 / 3 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Highway 233 Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Monument Cove 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Otter Cliffs 18 / 0 / 62 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 71
Otter Cliffs Plot Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Parking Lot Buttress 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Porcupine Islands (DWS) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Precipice aka The South Wall, The 55 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 60
School House 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
South Bubble 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Valley Cove 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 271 ft
GPS: 44.34, -68.258 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 235,477 total, 1,816/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Here's the correct link to trail closures:

nps.gov/acad/learn/news/tra…

(You may have to COPY (CTRL C) and PASTE (CTRL V) into your browser )


Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.

There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.

NPS Site

Attention: There is a new guidebook for this area!
With route descriptions for nearly 300 climbs, this guidebook covers all of the classic Acadia climbing areas, plus many of the island’s more obscure haunts. Detailed information will keep you climbing; beautiful photographs will keep you inspired. 124 pages; full color.
Also available is a digital version of the guide through the guidebook app company, rakkup.

rakkup.com/guidebooks/acadi…

Check out the site to purchase the new guidebook: rockclimbsofacadia.com/

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Getting There

Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.

226 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Acadia National Park Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Acadia National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Great Chimney
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central S…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Lobster
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Mt. Breakdown
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
A Dare by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Precipice aka The S Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
The Great Chimney Otter Cliffs 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Story of O Precipice aka The S Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Flake Otter Cliffs 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Gunklandia Precipice aka The S Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Old Town Precipice aka The S Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Precipice aka The S Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Precipice aka The S Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -… Precipice aka The S Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rock Lobster Otter Cliffs 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Green Mt. Breakdown Precipice aka The S Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Chitlin's Corner Precipice aka The S Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Guillotine Otter Cliffs 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
A Dare by the Sea Otter Cliffs 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Connecticut Cracks Precipice aka The S Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Acadia National Park »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
boulderacadia.weebly.com/in…

Went bouldering at Canada Cliffs and met John Eagleson who gave me a tour of the bouldering. Really great problems there including one he called "The Prow". I'll post it up here. Someone should talk to him about FAs and names of problems. He knows the deal. Great resource. Aug 28, 2016
Eric Nguyen
Natick, MA
Eric Nguyen   Natick, MA
Do people climb the Cadillac Cliffs on the south ridge of Gorham Mountain? There are some walls there that look fun and easy to protect. Just haven't seen any info on this particular crag online or in the new Simmons guide. Thanks! Jun 29, 2016
Ladd    
New Guidebook will be available shortly!

With route descriptions for nearly 300 climbs, this guidebook covers all of the classic Acadia climbing areas, plus many of the island’s more obscure haunts. Detailed information will keep you climbing; beautiful photographs will keep you inspired. 124 pages; full color.
Also available is a digital version of the guide through the guidebook app company, rakkup. Apr 4, 2015
Barrett - that crack is indeed Vacation Cracks. Short and sweet. Jul 14, 2014
Does anyone happen to know if the nice looking crack about 10 ft to the right of "Story of O" pitch 3 is "Vacation Cracks"? Wasn't 100% clear to me from the guidebook. Jul 10, 2014
All South Wall routes remain open during the Peregrine Closure; the closure starts just beyond the Central Slabs. While there are a few routes scattered around that area, they are all pretty darn obscure. The closure does include the Parking Lot Wall (accessed by the Precipice Trail) - not too many people climb there anyway, but it does have some cool routes on it. In short, the closure will not slow you down. May 14, 2014
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I'm going to be here (for my second time) in a few weeks; does anyone know if any of the Precipice routes are not closed for falcons? Seems like the climber's left-side routes might be open---but left of which route? The NPS closure area just says stuff north of the boundary "75 feet south of the parking lot" for the Precipice Trail.

Thanks guys :) May 12, 2014
Joe M.    
Old bouldering video from newenglandbouldering.com

youtube.com/watch?v=SI5bwSd… Apr 21, 2014
Hi Grant, hope the new guide is moving on......thought you might be interested in a Limey's viewpoint based on a few Acadia visits. The Butterfield guide was pretty good for getting you to the routes themselves. In spite of a few upgradings, Acadia grades seemed a bit tougher than elsewhere in the NE, although I always visit in mid summer when it's humid and greasy ! Rock quality at the Precipice is as good as anywhere, while at Otter Cliff it seemed a bit fissile; particularly after the departure of Razor Crack. As to specific routes:
Wafer Step ** 5.6
Recollections of Pacifica ** 5.9
Standard route ** 5.6
Story of O ** 5.7 for pitches 2 and 3
Old town *** 5.8 move to get started but easy above.
Return to Forever ** felt very hard at 5.9
Gunklandia ** 5.8 bouldery start and quite tough in the slippery sentry box on pitch 3
Green Mountain Breakdown *** brilliant route! although you have to ignore the gigantic vibrating detached flake on which the route is based from leaving Chitlins all the way to the crux roof! 10a for the roof?
Moraviana * 5.7 for pitch 2
Morning Glory * found this a big let down; not a particularly good route or line. Although, I have to admit to not being fan of contrived, semi bolted routes. Tough 5.9 as well.
Otter Cliff routes always seem to be hogged by guided parties, which is a shame because it seemed to have an undeserved reputation as a top rope venue. Stuff like Child's Play and Overhanging Corner were both ** , well protected routes.
Hope this is of interest.
Good luck with the book.
Alan. Feb 14, 2014
Hi All - I am working on a new guidebook to Acadia and am currently in the process of researching FA information. If anyone has any information on the subject, I'd love to hear about it. Additionally, I'm open to any other comments you may have regarding a new guidebook to the area.

Best,
Grant Jan 30, 2014
Bouldering website with some extra info:

boulderacadia.weebly.com/in…

Jim Apr 4, 2013
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
As an Acadian it is my duty to inform you guys on the history of the name. =)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acadians

Now how many of you knew that Cajun comes from 'Cadien' that comes from 'Acadien'?

Jeff Butterfield failed to mention anything about the Acadians in the 'Area History' which I think is unfortunate. In his defense, Acadians never lived on the Island. Nevertheless, if you use Acadia, you should talk about Acadians in the history of your book. Jun 14, 2012
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
Don't bolt! Go to Rumney if you want to clip bolts...once you've climbed all the routes there then start thinking about bolting here. Or...Top Rope it's no less hard core than sport climbing. Aug 7, 2011
Justin Sanford
Broadalbin, New York
Justin Sanford   Broadalbin, New York
Anyone have any detailed information on the bouldering in the park and the surrounding areas? I am trying to plan a week long trip up there and want to maximize our time/trip to see the best the area has to offer. Thanks in advance! Jul 19, 2011
Couloirman Schmiddy
Providence, RI
Couloirman Schmiddy   Providence, RI
Now that the Butterfield book is hard to find, whats the best guidebook to get for the area? Feb 8, 2011
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
Seconding that Acadia - A Climber's Guide by Jeff Butterfield is a must have resource. Feb 22, 2010
steve, this: nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/… might explain why there isn't a lot of bolting on the island. Apr 22, 2009
steve damboise
boulder colorado
steve damboise   boulder colorado
I'm wondering if you guys or gals have started bolting routes here anywhere! on the island there's potential everywhere .( LETS PROGRESS THE SPORT !!!!! ) Nov 21, 2008
Pete eye
Fort Collins, CO
Pete eye   Fort Collins, CO
"Acadia- A climbers Guide" by Jeff Butterfield very handy. Aug 6, 2008

More About Acadia National Park

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New
Guidebooks (1)

All Photos Within Acadia National Park (393)

Most Popular · Newest