Elevation: 271 ft
GPS: 44.34, -68.258 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 749,346 total · 4,244/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Here's the correct link to trail closures:

nps.gov/acad/learn/news/tra…

(You may have to COPY (CTRL C) and PASTE (CTRL V) into your browser )

Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.

There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.

NPS Site

Attention: There is a new guidebook for this area!
With route descriptions for nearly 300 climbs, this guidebook covers all of the classic Acadia climbing areas, plus many of the island’s more obscure haunts. Detailed information will keep you climbing; beautiful photographs will keep you inspired. 124 pages; full color.
Also available is a digital version of the guide through the guidebook app company, rakkup.

rakkup.com/guidebooks/acadi…

Check out the site to purchase the new guidebook: rockclimbsofacadia.com/

The view.

ACADIA GUIDING SERVICES:

  • Atlantic Climbing SchoolWith an office right in Bar Harbor these guys primarily serve Acadia and Camden, though they will guide any location in New England and also offer guiding internationally. Locally owned, these guys put out the last couple guidebooks for Acadia.
  • Acadia Mountain Guides - Also based in Bar Harbor along with a location in Orono Maine, this school focuses primarily on Acadia but also guides throughout New England, along with occasionally offering AMGA classes. Owned by John Tierney, who wrote the original Clifton Guidebook.
  • Equinox Guiding Service 

Getting There

Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.

Bolting

Acadia NP has a Climbing Advisor Group and procedures for how to handle bolting/rebolting. Details can be found here: nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…. . Let's follow the rules so climbers continue to have a good relationship with the park.

298 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at -Acadia National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 152
The Great Chimney
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 184
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 252
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 95
Gunklandia
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 255
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 110
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 83
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 148
Recollections of Pacifica -(Cent…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 87
Rock Lobster
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 78
Chicken of the Sea
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 80
Peak Performance
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 91
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 170
Adair by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 119
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Chimney Otter Cliffs
 152
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Precipice aka The S Wall
 184
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Story of O Precipice aka The S Wall
 252
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Gunklandia Precipice aka The S Wall
 95
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Old Town Precipice aka The S Wall
 255
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Precipice aka The S Wall
 110
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Precipice aka The S Wall
 83
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -… Precipice aka The S Wall
 148
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rock Lobster Otter Cliffs
 87
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Chicken of the Sea Precipice aka The S Wall
 78
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chitlin's Corner Precipice aka The S Wall
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Peak Performance Otter Cliffs
 80
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Guillotine Otter Cliffs
 91
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Adair by the Sea Otter Cliffs
 170
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Connecticut Cracks Precipice aka The S Wall
 119
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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