Elevation: 271 ft
GPS: 44.34, -68.258 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 462,880 total · 3,043/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 with improvements by Jeffrey LeCours
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Here's the correct link to trail closures:

nps.gov/acad/learn/news/tra…

(You may have to COPY (CTRL C) and PASTE (CTRL V) into your browser )

Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.

There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.

NPS Site

Attention: There is a new guidebook for this area!
With route descriptions for nearly 300 climbs, this guidebook covers all of the classic Acadia climbing areas, plus many of the island’s more obscure haunts. Detailed information will keep you climbing; beautiful photographs will keep you inspired. 124 pages; full color.
Also available is a digital version of the guide through the guidebook app company, rakkup.

http://www.rakkup.com/guidebooks/acadia-rock-climbing/

Check out the site to purchase the new guidebook: rockclimbsofacadia.com/

The view.

ACADIA GUIDING SERVICES:

  • Atlantic Climbing SchoolWith an office right in Bar Harbor these guys primarily serve Acadia and Camden, though they will guide any location in New England and also offer guiding internationally. Locally owned, these guys put out the last couple guidebooks for Acadia.
  • Acadia Mountain Guides - Also based in Bar Harbor along with a location in Orono Maine, this school focuses primarily on Acadia but also guides throughout New England, along with occasionally offering AMGA classes. Owned by John Tierney, who wrote the original Clifton Guidebook.
  • Equinox Guiding Service 

Getting There

Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.

255 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Acadia National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 154
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 123
The Great Chimney
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 202
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 100
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Gunklandia
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 220
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 92
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 71
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 118
Recollections of Pacifica -(Cent…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Rock Lobster
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 52
Green Mt. Breakdown
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 67
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 70
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 135
Adair by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 104
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Precipice aka The S Wall
 154
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
The Great Chimney Otter Cliffs
 123
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
Story of O Precipice aka The S Wall
 202
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Flake Otter Cliffs
 100
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Gunklandia Precipice aka The S Wall
 74
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Old Town Precipice aka The S Wall
 220
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Precipice aka The S Wall
 92
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Precipice aka The S Wall
 71
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -… Precipice aka The S Wall
 118
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rock Lobster Otter Cliffs
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Green Mt. Breakdown Precipice aka The S Wall
 52
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Chitlin's Corner Precipice aka The S Wall
 67
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Guillotine Otter Cliffs
 70
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Adair by the Sea Otter Cliffs
 135
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Connecticut Cracks Precipice aka The S Wall
 104
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Acadia National Park »

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