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Elevation: 271 ft
GPS: 44.33958, -68.25807
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Here's the correct link to trail closures:

nps.gov/acad/learn/news/tra…

(You may have to COPY (CTRL C) and PASTE (CTRL V) into your browser )

Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.

There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.

NPS Site

Attention: There is a new guidebook for this area!
With route descriptions for nearly 300 climbs, this guidebook covers all of the classic Acadia climbing areas, plus many of the island’s more obscure haunts. Detailed information will keep you climbing; beautiful photographs will keep you inspired. 124 pages; full color.
Also available is a digital version of the guide through the guidebook app company, rakkup.

http://www.rakkup.com/guidebooks/acadia-rock-climbing/

Check out the site to purchase the new guidebook: rockclimbsofacadia.com/

The view.

ACADIA GUIDING SERVICES:

  • Atlantic Climbing SchoolWith an office right in Bar Harbor these guys primarily serve Acadia and Camden, though they will guide any location in New England and also offer guiding internationally. Locally owned, these guys put out the last couple guidebooks for Acadia.
  • Acadia Mountain Guides - Also based in Bar Harbor along with a location in Orono Maine, this school focuses primarily on Acadia but also guides throughout New England, along with occasionally offering AMGA classes. Owned by John Tierney, who wrote the original Clifton Guidebook.
  • Equinox Guiding Service 

Getting There Suggest change

Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.

Bolting

Suggest change
Acadia NP has a Climbing Advisor Group and procedures for how to handle bolting/rebolting. Details can be found here: nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…. . Let's follow the rules so climbers continue to have a good relationship with the park.

356 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: -Acadia National Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at -Acadia National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3+ 6A+
 33
Purity
Boulder
V8-9 7B+
 12
Silence is the Question
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 291
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 302
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 131
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 65
Morning Glory
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 90
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 65
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 74
Green Mt. Breakdown
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 85
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 110
Guillotine
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 81
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 197
A Dare by the Sea
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 39
Head Arete
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 140
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Purity -MDI Bouldering > Beech Cliff Bouldering
 33
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Silence is the Question -MDI Bouldering > Beech Cliff Bouldering
 12
V8-9 7B+ Boulder
Story of O Precipice aka The S Wall
 291
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Old Town Precipice aka The S Wall
 302
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab) Precipice aka The S Wall
 131
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Morning Glory Great Head > Morning Glory Alcove
 65
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c… Precipice aka The S Wall
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff ST… Precipice aka The S Wall
 65
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Green Mt. Breakdown Precipice aka The S Wall
 74
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Chitlin's Corner Precipice aka The S Wall
 85
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Guillotine Otter Cliffs
 110
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Emigrant Crack - (mid-clif… Precipice aka The S Wall
 81
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
A Dare by the Sea Otter Cliffs
 197
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Head Arete Great Head > Left Wall
 39
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Connecticut Cracks Precipice aka The S Wall
 140
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in -Acadia National Park »

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