Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,525 total · 48/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Jul 14, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


80 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Climb a short, right facing corner to a roof, gain some handholds under the roof and pull around to the left. Climb a left arching fingercrack up to fixed anchors.

Location

This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.

Protection

Standard trad rack, emphasis on finger and hand sized pieces.

Photos

Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.8
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.8
The fingercrack after the roof is amazing. The roof is also really fun. Apr 25, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
Don't be intimidated by the roof. The gear is excellent and the stance you will find after you pull up and around to the left is very secure. You do have to PULL though. What a great little route--too bad the upper crack isn't longer. Oct 7, 2011
Agree with the above comments. Great pro at the roof. No particularly big cams needed. Really is a sweet route. Sep 21, 2012
Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
  5.8
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
  5.8
This was a contender for my favorite route during a weekend full of climbing here. Great fist jam over the top makes pulling the roof easier than you would think. And while you don't necessarily need any big gear, I did place a #4 C4 in the wide crack down low after the wedged block, and a #3 right before the roof. Jun 16, 2015
A note for the area:

My observation is that the Central Slabs area of South Wall dries first after a rain storm before a lot of stuff on other parts of South Wall. Aug 15, 2017