Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Byzantine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juvenile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pipe Dreams T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pirates of Penzance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,404 total · 48/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Jul 14, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


79 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Climb a short, right facing corner to a roof, gain some handholds under the roof and pull around to the left. Climb a left arching fingercrack up to fixed anchors.

Location

This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.

Protection

Standard trad rack, emphasis on finger and hand sized pieces.

Photos

Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.8
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.8
The fingercrack after the roof is amazing. The roof is also really fun. Apr 25, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
Don't be intimidated by the roof. The gear is excellent and the stance you will find after you pull up and around to the left is very secure. You do have to PULL though. What a great little route--too bad the upper crack isn't longer. Oct 7, 2011
Agree with the above comments. Great pro at the roof. No particularly big cams needed. Really is a sweet route. Sep 21, 2012
Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
  5.8
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
  5.8
This was a contender for my favorite route during a weekend full of climbing here. Great fist jam over the top makes pulling the roof easier than you would think. And while you don't necessarily need any big gear, I did place a #4 C4 in the wide crack down low after the wedged block, and a #3 right before the roof. Jun 16, 2015
A note for the area:

My observation is that the Central Slabs area of South Wall dries first after a rain storm before a lot of stuff on other parts of South Wall. Aug 15, 2017

More About Bartleby -(Central Slab)

Printer-Friendly