Type: Trad
GPS: 44.34691, -68.19013
FA: Chris Kane 2004
Page Views: 208 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Sep 29, 2023
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A super neat route that follows a series of finger cracks up a left trending arete. Kinda reminds me of the rock at the Barber Wall of Cathedral Ledge, just much lower angle. The gear is small, but protects the cruxes well. Hike up the hill from the Chitlin’s Corner area past the bolted slabs (Side Street / Road To Nowhere) and locate a blocky corner. Start up the moderate corner, being mindful of some loose rock, eventually stepping out right to a horn shaped flake. Mantel on top of the flake and set some small nuts in a crack on the arete. Make a cool reach move to gain the first good lock (crux). Better finger locks and bigger gear lead to a stance out left. Make an airy step into the next series of cracks on the arete. Where they end, nest some small cams and start up a slab above. A hidden 0.0 out left the takes some of the sting out of the runout. Belay from the 2 bolt anchor below Girls From Brewer. This is a much higher quality way to access that pitch.

Location Suggest change

Just left of the bolted slab climbs, but right of the Dike Gully. Road Less Traveled follows cracks up the arete of the Dike Gully.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack from 0.2 #1 with doubles from 0.2 - 0.4, small to medium sized nuts. I also brought and used doubles in 0.0 - 0.1, but could’ve likely used nuts instead. I’m also a fear nester haha.

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