Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,693 total · 34/month
Shared By: Ladd on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


104 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

A excellent long finger crack!

This climb follows the plumb line that Wafer Step (5.5) joins at the half-point of this wall.

Enjoy moderate moves until you reach a point where the crack squeezes down and won't accept fingers, then pull the crux face moves and enjoy the easier ground above.

Location

This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.

left of wafer step in the talus at the obvious low angle finger crack.

Protection

small cams, wires
2 bolt anchor

Photos

Derek Doucet
  5.9
Derek Doucet  
  5.9
I'm not sure what the OP means by a "long finger crack". Like so many routes on the island, this route is both of superb quality, and tragically short. As in perhaps 30' of climbing short. A one (really, really fun) move wonder, albeit one with impeccable rock, in a gorgeous setting. Absolutely worth climbing, but don't expect anything long or sustained. Jul 9, 2010
Ladd

  5.9
Ladd    
  5.9
yes, very true about the "long" statement, perhaps a great top to bottom finger crack would be a better description since so many of the island's cracks are broken by ledges. Jul 10, 2010
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Best not fall at the crux moves, used nothing bigger than .75 Jun 23, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Reachy for this shorty...fully stretched out during the crux move. May 27, 2015
Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
  5.9
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
  5.9
Green alien seems to be the money piece at the precipice. It will be right below your feet while you pull the crux moves, but it's bomb. I reckon the fall would be very safe. Great route, go do it! Jun 16, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
  5.9-
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
  5.9-
Like so many routes on The Island, it's perfect, if a bit short. Reminds me of my little granddaughters. Feb 1, 2016