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Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Byzantine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juvenile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tempest , The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,131 total · 14/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Aug 14, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Technical/Balance/Thin

Location

[ NOTE - A Mid-Cliff START on the left end of the "Fingers Ledge" at the belay shared by "2nd belay of Precipice Ledges (5.4) " and "Finger's on a Seascape". R Hall, ME Admin.]

This route is the first arete to the left of Return to Forever, shares anchor with Return to Forever

Protection

5 Bolts

Photos

David Friend
  5.12
David Friend  
  5.12
This description is a bit dated. Some updates:

- There are 6 or 7 bolts now, not sure which ones are new
- Bring some medium cams for a gear anchor at top if bringing up a second...you can rappel from Return to Forever anchor, but it is too far right to belay from.
- Despite the name, this is a face climb.

This would be a proud on-sight (especially if rain has washed away chalk). I won't spew beta, except to say crux doesn't come until after 3rd bolt. Jul 9, 2012
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.11d
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.11d
While this climb mostly is on the face, there were certainly a number of key moves I did on the arete. Was i doing it right? I dunno, but it felt at the grade. If you like tenuous, smedge fests where you feel like you could fall at any moment, and your feet shouldn't be sticking where they are, then this is a good route to hop on. I would argue that it's pretty reasonably protected, despite the fact that it can be a little heady to lead. Didn't bring any cams and belayed off of the Return to forever bolts just fine... Aug 6, 2012
I have a "fond" memory of doing this route in the long ago, before the added bolts. I'd just finished leading "Fingers in the Seascape" and got lured by the line of bolts above--not knowing what route it was or the grade. My belayer was a non-climber friend. Nevertheless, he caught me on several short falls 3/4 of the way up. The clips were scary. Afterward, in the dark and back at the car, I first learned what I'd been on. The old guidebook warned that the bolts were badly positioned and recommended that you top-rope the route. Hopefully, with the addition of new bolts, this line has been improved. Jul 11, 2013

More About Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START)

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