Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,843 total · 28/month
Shared By: Andrew Mertens on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Climb the face up to the hanging corner (which Trotsky follows), and break left up the steep, juggy flake ladder. Pull up on to the slab(the guidebook called this the crux, but I though the steep climbing was harder, if more secure)and follow the small, left facing corner to a ledge and a gear anchor. Alternatively, traverse right from the ledge and belay from the slings at the top of Trotsky's Corner.

Location

[NOTE: In the new guidebook this climb is in the area referred to as the "Alcove".]

The steep face before the stone stairs on the right end of the precipice. Just left of Trotsky's Corner.

Protection

Standard rack.

The first twenty feet doesn't have that much gear, but you can get a bomber #7-8 nut in a fingerlock slot about twelve feet up. Other than that, finger sized cams work great behind the flakes.

Photos

Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.9-
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.9-
The correct route name is "Chicken OF the Sea". Gear is sufficient after the initial 15 feet, and remember to steer right into the final 5 feet of "Trotsky" at the top, otherwise you will be greeted by a heinous, grassy mantle. Aug 21, 2012
Andrew Mertens
Fort Collins
  5.9
Andrew Mertens   Fort Collins
  5.9
Fixed, thanks! Mar 28, 2013
Chuck Weber
biddeford, me
 
Chuck Weber   biddeford, me
 
Nice line - just want to add that the alternate "heinous grassy mantle" (as Chris put it) finish adds to the fun and keeps the finish more at the grade for me Sep 26, 2018