All Locations > Maine > -Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall

Gypsy Arete

Name: Gypsy Arete
Rating: 2.0

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adrift T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bilge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Byzantine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Conan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Connecticut Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Crossbones TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Crosswind TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gypsy Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mowgli T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Offshore Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pirates of Penzance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Precipice aka The South Wall \| 2717, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Reach, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Schooner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Wagger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	TR
GPS:	44.34691, -68.19013
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	191 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Ryan DeLena on Oct 15, 2023
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…

Description

Gypsy Arete is a TR line that climbs the sharp arete just left of Southern Fried Chute. It starts by climbing the initial flakes of Southern Fried Chute, then steps left to the sharp arete. Pull onto the arete with a good flake, then make tenuous laybacking moves with smeared feet, culminating at a nice jug. Easy climbing leads to the belay ledge.

Location

The arete left of Southern Fried Chute

Protection

TR. To set up, climb Southern Fried Chute to a 2 bolt anchor, and lower down from above, or rappel and base manage the route. Despite how it appears, the rope line from the anchor stays pretty naturally over the arete, and isn’t as much of a swing issue as it looks, though you could certainly place a directional. Could be cool if it were bolted one day.