Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,406 total · 58/month
Shared By: maineah on Nov 30, 2009 with updates from jessie briggs
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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47 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

P 1: Start up ChitlinÂ’s Corner. After 50ft. move up right onto discontinuous cracks to a semi hanging belay ledge (gear).

P 2: Follow corner/ramp to a small roof. Pull roof (crux) and continue up face to belay ledge (2 bolt anchors).

Location

Chitlin's Corner: Massive left-facing corner

Protection

Small cams and nuts.

Photos

Steven James
Portland, Maine
  5.9+
Steven James   Portland, Maine
  5.9+
This is my favorite route at Precipice. Lots of beautiful island and ocean exposure! Mar 10, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.10
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.10
This is a fantastic climb, but I wish I had beta on the protection before I climbed it. I found myself on some very scary runout on the second pitch. The entirety of that pitch is protected with gear around finger size. Also, some of the best gear to make the first pitch anchor is around finger size... Basically I did not have what I needed to protect the roof and the climbing above it well because I had already used the gear that would fit, and found myself in an R-Rated situation.

I highly recommend doubles or even triples of small hands, finger size, and smaller gear. Try to find a way to build your first pitch anchor without using this size gear if you don't have doubles. I'm sure it can be done, though it might make for a less comfortable belay.

Don't be afraid, just be prepared! The large majority of this route goes at about 5.7, but the crux sequence (the second pitch roof) is easily 5.10 in my opinion. Protect that roof before you pull up and commit! Jun 30, 2014
jessie briggs
  5.9+
jessie briggs  
  5.9+
Did this one in a mega pitch today, so much better this way! Use super long runners and don’t place much in the initial corner. So fun! Jun 2, 2018