All Locations > Maine > -Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall

Dancing Gypsy

Name: Dancing Gypsy
Rating: 2.0

5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Adrift T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Byzantine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Connecticut Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Crossbones TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Crosswind TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gypsy Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 5.15+ 9b+ 38 XII+ 39 E11 8b
	Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Offshore Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pirates of Penzance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Reach, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m), Grade II
FA:	Ryan Scott, Eli Simon
Page Views:	359 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Ryan DeLena on Jul 27, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…

Description

Route originally was climbed straight up from Girls from Brewer anchors ( 5.10C PG13/R). The preferred method is to start at Sea Gypsy mid cliff anchor. Climb up and left to reach the first bolt of Fat Gypsy. Make a challenging friction sequence to gain a thin crack. Follow this to a stance and climb past another bolt, gaining the the ledge beneath Fat Back Crack. Break left to another bolt. The crux is getting through the next body length or so, and figuring out what to do with the strange texture above you is hard on the onsight! Gain the prominent undercling and make an epic traverse left into the finish jugs of Girls From Brewer, or stay to the right for more challenging face climbing.